Timing is important! When you teach voice commands, give the command. Follow with the correction and praise. When you teach hand signals, give the signal. Follow with the correction and praise. When you want your dog to heel or to come, use her name with the command. When you want the dog to perform at a distance, stress the command or give a signal without the name. Give a command or signal ONCE. Repeat when necessary but put a correction with it. Praise AFTER commands and signals and WITH corrections.
The praise must be discontinued when exhibiting in Obedience Trials, but when used during the training period, your dog will be more responsive. When you praise, BE SINCERE! Dogs respond to a cajoling tone of voice. Modify your method of training to the SIZE AND TEMPERAMENT of the dog. Not all dogs train alike! When you correct, disguise corrections so you and your assistant will not appear responsible.
If you inadvertently make a harsh correction or misjudge the timing, make up to your dog immediately; then be careful not to repeat the mistake. If you find that one of the suggested corrective methods has a bad effect on your dog, don't use it. Dogs react differently to corrections. When problems come up, work backward. If your dog won't retrieve over the hurdle, lower the jump until she gains confidence. If she won't retrieve on flat, go back to the HOLDING and "TAKE IT!" exercises. Praise and a fresh start have a magical effect when a dog is temporarily confused. If you use your hand at any time to reprimand your dog (such as cuffing the dog's nose for creeping), pat her with the SAME hand you used to correct her. Your dog must think the hand correction was accidental. Don't be surprised when you attempt to solve one problem if your dog slips back on some other part of the exercise.
For instance, if you have been correcting your dog for NOT coming, she will undoubtedly come a few times TOO soon. The setback, while discouraging, is temporary, and in time you will balance the training. A good trainer will never use food as the ONLY inducement for making a dog obedient, but if your slow performer peps up when you give food, use it to overcome problems. If you are NOT successful in your training, BE MORE DEMANDING. Each time you correct for a REPEATED mistake, use a firmer tone of voice and jerk the leash harder. Strive for perfection from the beginning. When you are careless about little things, they become problems later on. The suggestions offered in The Complete Open Obedience Course will be more effective if your dog received the basic training outlined in The Complete Novice Obedience Course.
Saturday, 8 May 2010
Monday, 3 May 2010
Feeding Your Dog Can Be Easy
Wherever there are two or more dog owners gathered together there will be arguments. One person will tell you that he has never fed his dog anything but dog biscuits, and look at him! He's in perfect health. You look at the animal and he is indeed in the pink.
General remarks...
FEEDING is one of the most controversial subjects in dogdom. Wherever there are two or more dog owners gathered together there will be arguments. One person will tell you that he has never fed his dog anything but dog biscuits, and look at him! He's in perfect health. You look at the animal and he is indeed in the pink. Another owner will exhibit a perfect specimen to you, pointing out that he was raised, man and boy, on nothing but prepared dog foods. Others will attribute the excellent health of their pets to diets of vegetables only, others to meat only, others to milkless and eggless diets only, etc., etc. I myself have seen many healthy dogs, who were brought up on spaghetti only, and just last summer I saw a litter of perfectly healthy six-month-old puppies who had been raised on what is as lethal a diet for dogs as I know of-fried pancakes and nothing else. In my Ten years of treating dogs, however, I have found that healthy dogs brought up on such diets are far in the minority, and I have found that very few of them ever go wrong on meat, milk, toast or cereal, and a few vegetables.
Proper feeding is unquestionably the most important single factor in raising healthy dogs, but in undertaking to tell you how to do it, I realize that I have my hands full. Dogs are so rampantly individualistic in every way under the sun, and particularly in the matter of feeding, that it's almost impossible to prescribe for you a set of rules and diets that would precisely take care of every individual dog. I meet so many bewildered dog owners during the course of a week, however, who are so appallingly misinformed on dog feeding generally, that I have few qualms, if any, in listing for your guidance diets which are admittedly blanket. They may or may not be correct in every detail for your own dog, but they are not so far wrong in any instance as to cause any real harm to a dog, and certainly they're far safer for the amateur dog owner to follow than some of the absurd advice that I hear bandied about every day
Two dogs, the same age and the same size, two dogs out of the same litter, in fact, will often differ considerably in their feeding requirements. One may need a pound of meat a day and the other a half pound. One may have difficulty in digesting vegetables while the other one thrives on vegetables. Eggs may agree with one and not with the other. One may get fat on these diets and the other lose weight, but these are all matters that a little common sense can remedy.
If certain foods don't agree with your dog, don't give them to him.
If your dog gets too fat, it may be that he's not getting enough exercise. It may be that he's one of those demon assimilators who converts every crumb of food into fat and energy, in which case he needs less food. It may be that he has worms; worms sometimes give a dog a bloated look that the novice may mistake for fat. It may be that he has some glandular trouble. But the chances are nine out of ten that he's being overfed. Overfeeding is the big error nearly all dog owners make. The normal healthy puppy is food-crazy. He'll undoubtedly beg and plead for more food than I have advised, but I want to warn you that even if you give in to his pleas (and dog owners are notoriously weak in arguments with puppies over food), he'll still complain and go around telling the neighbors you're starving him to death.
If in following these diets, you find that your dog is losing weight, it's possible that he needs more food than I have indicated. It's more likely, however, that he needs an examination by a veterinarian. He may be suffering from worms that are robbing him of his nourishment; he may have a liver disturbance of some kind, tuberculosis, a foreign body lodged in his insides, or half a dozen other troubles that could cause underweight. Underweight or loss of weight in a dog should always be looked into because cases of simple underfeeding are not common among well-cared-for dogs.
General remarks...
FEEDING is one of the most controversial subjects in dogdom. Wherever there are two or more dog owners gathered together there will be arguments. One person will tell you that he has never fed his dog anything but dog biscuits, and look at him! He's in perfect health. You look at the animal and he is indeed in the pink. Another owner will exhibit a perfect specimen to you, pointing out that he was raised, man and boy, on nothing but prepared dog foods. Others will attribute the excellent health of their pets to diets of vegetables only, others to meat only, others to milkless and eggless diets only, etc., etc. I myself have seen many healthy dogs, who were brought up on spaghetti only, and just last summer I saw a litter of perfectly healthy six-month-old puppies who had been raised on what is as lethal a diet for dogs as I know of-fried pancakes and nothing else. In my Ten years of treating dogs, however, I have found that healthy dogs brought up on such diets are far in the minority, and I have found that very few of them ever go wrong on meat, milk, toast or cereal, and a few vegetables.
Proper feeding is unquestionably the most important single factor in raising healthy dogs, but in undertaking to tell you how to do it, I realize that I have my hands full. Dogs are so rampantly individualistic in every way under the sun, and particularly in the matter of feeding, that it's almost impossible to prescribe for you a set of rules and diets that would precisely take care of every individual dog. I meet so many bewildered dog owners during the course of a week, however, who are so appallingly misinformed on dog feeding generally, that I have few qualms, if any, in listing for your guidance diets which are admittedly blanket. They may or may not be correct in every detail for your own dog, but they are not so far wrong in any instance as to cause any real harm to a dog, and certainly they're far safer for the amateur dog owner to follow than some of the absurd advice that I hear bandied about every day
Two dogs, the same age and the same size, two dogs out of the same litter, in fact, will often differ considerably in their feeding requirements. One may need a pound of meat a day and the other a half pound. One may have difficulty in digesting vegetables while the other one thrives on vegetables. Eggs may agree with one and not with the other. One may get fat on these diets and the other lose weight, but these are all matters that a little common sense can remedy.
If certain foods don't agree with your dog, don't give them to him.
If your dog gets too fat, it may be that he's not getting enough exercise. It may be that he's one of those demon assimilators who converts every crumb of food into fat and energy, in which case he needs less food. It may be that he has worms; worms sometimes give a dog a bloated look that the novice may mistake for fat. It may be that he has some glandular trouble. But the chances are nine out of ten that he's being overfed. Overfeeding is the big error nearly all dog owners make. The normal healthy puppy is food-crazy. He'll undoubtedly beg and plead for more food than I have advised, but I want to warn you that even if you give in to his pleas (and dog owners are notoriously weak in arguments with puppies over food), he'll still complain and go around telling the neighbors you're starving him to death.
If in following these diets, you find that your dog is losing weight, it's possible that he needs more food than I have indicated. It's more likely, however, that he needs an examination by a veterinarian. He may be suffering from worms that are robbing him of his nourishment; he may have a liver disturbance of some kind, tuberculosis, a foreign body lodged in his insides, or half a dozen other troubles that could cause underweight. Underweight or loss of weight in a dog should always be looked into because cases of simple underfeeding are not common among well-cared-for dogs.
Tips Of Feeding Your Dog
Before listing the diets, I want to give you first the answers to a few questions that are asked me most frequently on the subject of feeding in general. Most of them are applicable to all sizes and breeds of dogs and therefore should prove helpful to you either by themselves or in connection with the diets that follow:
1. Dogs usually wolf their food down without chewing. This is perfectly natural and nothing to worry about. Their teeth are made for tearing food and their stomachs take care of the rest. This habit probably dates back to the time when dogs traveled in packs; a dog had to eat fast to get his share.
2. Some dogs won't eat raw meat. Such dogs, I suppose, are the truly civilized ones. Cook the meat for them slightly, enough to take away the odor of blood and the reminder of barbaric days.
3. Some dogs won't eat ground meat but will eat it cubed, while still others like it in big pieces so that they can tear it apart.
4. Raw eggs disagree with some dogs. Try soft-boiled eggs in this case. If soft-boiled eggs don't agree with your dog, or if he doesn't like eggs, forget about them.
5. Expensive cuts of meat are not necessary. The cheaper cuts, as long as they are lean, are just as nourishing.
6. Heart, liver, and other organic foods agree with some dogs. Dogs in their wild state, I have read, used to kill an animal, and if times were particularly prosperous, eat only his insides and leave the rest of the carcass. I don't know what this proves today. I do know that organic food disagrees with many dogs, and if you find that it disagrees with your dog, don't give it to him.
7. Prepared foods are all right occasionally, but before you use any of them, consult your veterinarian about types and brands.
8. Milk does not cause worms.
9. Meat does not cause viciousness.
10. Some dogs won't drink water. This is nothing to worry about. It may be that they're getting all the moisture they need from their food and milk or from a source unknown to you-the toilet bowl, for instance. There is a popular belief that a block of sulphur placed in the drinking water is (a) a water purifier, (b) a blood purifier, (c) a worm exterminator, (d) a tonic and I don't know what else-the list is so long. This is a lot of foolishness. A block of sulphur is a fine dust collector and that's about all.
11. No dog should be allowed within a mile of chicken bones, fish bones, or other small bones.
12. The following foods, I have found, do not generally agree with dogs: pork, potatoes, fresh bread, cake, candy, cabbage, turnips, spaghetti, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, beets, lima beans, bananas, and cheese (excepting cottage cheese). And I would sternly like to add: cocktails, cocktail canapes and sausages, salted nuts, and such things that people in expansive moods too often feel that they must share with the dog. The festive board is not for dogs.
13. The following foods, I have found, do agree generally with dogs: beef, lamb or mutton, fish, carrots, spinach, string beans, asparagus, boiled onions, broccoli, lettuce, celery; fruits such as oranges, pears, apples.
14. If your dog won't eat at his regular mealtime, take his dish away and wait until his next mealtime. Don't try to tempt him an hour or so after his regular mealtime.
15. Different breeds do not require different kinds of food. A Mexican hairless eats the same kind of food that a Scotty eats, and a Scotty eats the same as a great Dane. Only the amounts vary, and big dogs quite often need more "filler" foods-that is, foods other than meat.
16. If cod-liver oil upsets your dog, try viosterol. Give smaller quantities of viosterol than those prescribed for cod-liver oil. Give very small doses of either one in hot weather.
1. Dogs usually wolf their food down without chewing. This is perfectly natural and nothing to worry about. Their teeth are made for tearing food and their stomachs take care of the rest. This habit probably dates back to the time when dogs traveled in packs; a dog had to eat fast to get his share.
2. Some dogs won't eat raw meat. Such dogs, I suppose, are the truly civilized ones. Cook the meat for them slightly, enough to take away the odor of blood and the reminder of barbaric days.
3. Some dogs won't eat ground meat but will eat it cubed, while still others like it in big pieces so that they can tear it apart.
4. Raw eggs disagree with some dogs. Try soft-boiled eggs in this case. If soft-boiled eggs don't agree with your dog, or if he doesn't like eggs, forget about them.
5. Expensive cuts of meat are not necessary. The cheaper cuts, as long as they are lean, are just as nourishing.
6. Heart, liver, and other organic foods agree with some dogs. Dogs in their wild state, I have read, used to kill an animal, and if times were particularly prosperous, eat only his insides and leave the rest of the carcass. I don't know what this proves today. I do know that organic food disagrees with many dogs, and if you find that it disagrees with your dog, don't give it to him.
7. Prepared foods are all right occasionally, but before you use any of them, consult your veterinarian about types and brands.
8. Milk does not cause worms.
9. Meat does not cause viciousness.
10. Some dogs won't drink water. This is nothing to worry about. It may be that they're getting all the moisture they need from their food and milk or from a source unknown to you-the toilet bowl, for instance. There is a popular belief that a block of sulphur placed in the drinking water is (a) a water purifier, (b) a blood purifier, (c) a worm exterminator, (d) a tonic and I don't know what else-the list is so long. This is a lot of foolishness. A block of sulphur is a fine dust collector and that's about all.
11. No dog should be allowed within a mile of chicken bones, fish bones, or other small bones.
12. The following foods, I have found, do not generally agree with dogs: pork, potatoes, fresh bread, cake, candy, cabbage, turnips, spaghetti, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, beets, lima beans, bananas, and cheese (excepting cottage cheese). And I would sternly like to add: cocktails, cocktail canapes and sausages, salted nuts, and such things that people in expansive moods too often feel that they must share with the dog. The festive board is not for dogs.
13. The following foods, I have found, do agree generally with dogs: beef, lamb or mutton, fish, carrots, spinach, string beans, asparagus, boiled onions, broccoli, lettuce, celery; fruits such as oranges, pears, apples.
14. If your dog won't eat at his regular mealtime, take his dish away and wait until his next mealtime. Don't try to tempt him an hour or so after his regular mealtime.
15. Different breeds do not require different kinds of food. A Mexican hairless eats the same kind of food that a Scotty eats, and a Scotty eats the same as a great Dane. Only the amounts vary, and big dogs quite often need more "filler" foods-that is, foods other than meat.
16. If cod-liver oil upsets your dog, try viosterol. Give smaller quantities of viosterol than those prescribed for cod-liver oil. Give very small doses of either one in hot weather.
Thursday, 22 April 2010
House Train Your Dog Fast
If you have just purchased or adopted a new puppy, you have probably already started to realize that you will need to house train your dog. One can only clean up soiled or soggy carpet a few times before is starts to get frustrating. So what can you do? This short article will contain a few tips for house breaking your new pet.
You may think that house breaking your pet will be difficult, it really isn't all that bad. It is in your dog's nature to want to keep its living area clean. This is very helpful when trying to house train your dog. Essentially when your pet realizes that he is home, this inappropriate behavior will stop. Your goal should be to help this process along as quickly as possible.
The first thing you should do is to make sure that there are no physical problems that are causing your pet to soil your carpets. This is only the case with a small percentage of dogs. However, if your pet has not been to the vet, make an appointment right away. Your dog should be checked for conditions that would make house training more difficult as well as his overall healthiness. While your pet is visiting the vet, ask to have them checked for worms. Remember that the old adage "You are what you eat" is close to the truth. A poor quality dog food can cause digestive problems that in turn may cause loose stools. This will make it more difficult for your new pet to control himself. You should find a food that isn't saturated with fillers. This will make the stool more solid and there will be less of it as well. I have used Nutro Natural Choice with great success. There are many other choices on the market that will also work well.
One of the most important aspects when trying to house train your dog is close supervision. This is probably the most important part of house training a pet because dogs learn by habit or repetition. If you see your dog showing signs of needing to be taken out, then you must take immediate action to get your dog outside to its designated area. Consistency is critical when training your pet. Do not make excuses such as it's cold or dark outside or your pet will adopt these same attitudes. You should try to arrange to take your dog out every couple of house while house training. Supervising your pet will also allow you to correct your pet while it is still fresh on his mind. While dog are very intelligent and perceptive, short term memory is one of their weaknesses. Correcting your dog after more than a few minutes have passes has no purpose because your dog will not remember what he did to cause you to scold him.
If you follow these simple suggestions, your carpets and your new pet to survive housebreaking relatively free from stress.
There's no reason you should be nervous about trying to house train your dog. Click Here to get the information you need to effectively housebreak your pet. If you're ready to read more about how our guide can help you end soiled carpet forever visit our house train your dog page. Join the thousands we have already helped and visit us now.
You may think that house breaking your pet will be difficult, it really isn't all that bad. It is in your dog's nature to want to keep its living area clean. This is very helpful when trying to house train your dog. Essentially when your pet realizes that he is home, this inappropriate behavior will stop. Your goal should be to help this process along as quickly as possible.
The first thing you should do is to make sure that there are no physical problems that are causing your pet to soil your carpets. This is only the case with a small percentage of dogs. However, if your pet has not been to the vet, make an appointment right away. Your dog should be checked for conditions that would make house training more difficult as well as his overall healthiness. While your pet is visiting the vet, ask to have them checked for worms. Remember that the old adage "You are what you eat" is close to the truth. A poor quality dog food can cause digestive problems that in turn may cause loose stools. This will make it more difficult for your new pet to control himself. You should find a food that isn't saturated with fillers. This will make the stool more solid and there will be less of it as well. I have used Nutro Natural Choice with great success. There are many other choices on the market that will also work well.
One of the most important aspects when trying to house train your dog is close supervision. This is probably the most important part of house training a pet because dogs learn by habit or repetition. If you see your dog showing signs of needing to be taken out, then you must take immediate action to get your dog outside to its designated area. Consistency is critical when training your pet. Do not make excuses such as it's cold or dark outside or your pet will adopt these same attitudes. You should try to arrange to take your dog out every couple of house while house training. Supervising your pet will also allow you to correct your pet while it is still fresh on his mind. While dog are very intelligent and perceptive, short term memory is one of their weaknesses. Correcting your dog after more than a few minutes have passes has no purpose because your dog will not remember what he did to cause you to scold him.
If you follow these simple suggestions, your carpets and your new pet to survive housebreaking relatively free from stress.
There's no reason you should be nervous about trying to house train your dog. Click Here to get the information you need to effectively housebreak your pet. If you're ready to read more about how our guide can help you end soiled carpet forever visit our house train your dog page. Join the thousands we have already helped and visit us now.
How To Train Your Dog In One Evening
Are you having problems with your dogs behavior? Does your dog bark all the time? Does your dog dig up your yard? Does your dog chew everything? Would you like to learn How To Train Your Dog In One Evening to stop this. These are just a few of the problems dog owners have.
I guess since you are reading this article that you are looking for answers to these problems, let me help:
Make your training sessions short and fun, about 10 to 20 mins tops, if your dog isn't having fun they won't respond in the way you want. Don't become cross with your dog during training, if you feel like your getting frustrated then call a stop the session and try again tomorrow.
Avoid confusing your dog, keep your commands short, clear and consistant. For example if your dog jumps on your couch and you say "down", the dog is going to lie down, as this is the command for lie down, what you should say is "off" as this means get off something.
Trying to get your dog to stop barking fully is almost impossible as well as being cruel to your dog, controlling your dogs barking however would be great for yourself and your neighbors. A couple of things you could try are:
1, Give your dog some consideration, dogs are pack animals and are used to having company, one of the main reasons for you dog barking is they could be lonely. Spending time with your dog playing and exercising will result in a contented and happy dog, the dog will bark less. If you have to leave your dog for long periods of time take them for a long walk and play intense games with them.
2. Your home and your family mirror your dog's pack and dogs do tend to take on traits of the pack. If your home is noisy so will be your dog, try calming the situation this will prevent him or her from barking quite as much.
Digging is a common thing for dogs to do, they can do it for all sorts of reasons, boredom, wanting to escape and also trying to reach you to mention but a few. Trying to identify the reason can be difficult but you could look at where the holes are being dug. There is a lot of truth in the saying: "the lawn will forgive your dog, surely in the grand scheme of things a healthy dog is better than a perfect lawn". The best thing for dogs who dig is to locate a part of your yard for them to dig, try burying treats or their toys to encourage them to use this area even fence it off if you need too, but give them an area where it doesn't matter if they dig.
Chewing is also a regular activity for dogs, they do it because:
1. They are trying to sooth sore teething gums.
2. They are bored.
3. They are trying to relieve tension or anxiety.
Try moving everything you wouldn't want the dog to destroy out of sight, if they can't see it they won't want it. Give them something of their own to chew, some of the most popular dog chews are: Stuffed Kongs and Nylabones.
Kongs can be stuffed with foods such as peanut butter or bananas, or even frozen items.
Nylabones come in an assortment of styles colours and textures, you should praise your dog or give them the odd treat if he or she chews these items.
Watching your dogs chewing habits will help when he or she attempts to chew something they shouldn't, say "no" and offer them their chew instead, be consistant and persevere, praise your dog when they stop chewing.
These are just a few tips on training your dog to stop barking, digging holes in your yard and chewing up your treasured items. for much more help and useful solutions why not take a look at: How To Train Your Dog In One Evening.
My name is Emma Everson and I specialize in providing dog training solutions. I have been training dogs for 20 years and have researched extensively in all areas of dog behavior. How To Train Your Dog In One Evening is an outstanding collection of dog training secrets for training your dog quickly, it has entries from experts who collectively have 80 years experience, they include Police dog handlers, show dog trainers and veterinary technicians
I guess since you are reading this article that you are looking for answers to these problems, let me help:
Make your training sessions short and fun, about 10 to 20 mins tops, if your dog isn't having fun they won't respond in the way you want. Don't become cross with your dog during training, if you feel like your getting frustrated then call a stop the session and try again tomorrow.
Avoid confusing your dog, keep your commands short, clear and consistant. For example if your dog jumps on your couch and you say "down", the dog is going to lie down, as this is the command for lie down, what you should say is "off" as this means get off something.
Trying to get your dog to stop barking fully is almost impossible as well as being cruel to your dog, controlling your dogs barking however would be great for yourself and your neighbors. A couple of things you could try are:
1, Give your dog some consideration, dogs are pack animals and are used to having company, one of the main reasons for you dog barking is they could be lonely. Spending time with your dog playing and exercising will result in a contented and happy dog, the dog will bark less. If you have to leave your dog for long periods of time take them for a long walk and play intense games with them.
2. Your home and your family mirror your dog's pack and dogs do tend to take on traits of the pack. If your home is noisy so will be your dog, try calming the situation this will prevent him or her from barking quite as much.
Digging is a common thing for dogs to do, they can do it for all sorts of reasons, boredom, wanting to escape and also trying to reach you to mention but a few. Trying to identify the reason can be difficult but you could look at where the holes are being dug. There is a lot of truth in the saying: "the lawn will forgive your dog, surely in the grand scheme of things a healthy dog is better than a perfect lawn". The best thing for dogs who dig is to locate a part of your yard for them to dig, try burying treats or their toys to encourage them to use this area even fence it off if you need too, but give them an area where it doesn't matter if they dig.
Chewing is also a regular activity for dogs, they do it because:
1. They are trying to sooth sore teething gums.
2. They are bored.
3. They are trying to relieve tension or anxiety.
Try moving everything you wouldn't want the dog to destroy out of sight, if they can't see it they won't want it. Give them something of their own to chew, some of the most popular dog chews are: Stuffed Kongs and Nylabones.
Kongs can be stuffed with foods such as peanut butter or bananas, or even frozen items.
Nylabones come in an assortment of styles colours and textures, you should praise your dog or give them the odd treat if he or she chews these items.
Watching your dogs chewing habits will help when he or she attempts to chew something they shouldn't, say "no" and offer them their chew instead, be consistant and persevere, praise your dog when they stop chewing.
These are just a few tips on training your dog to stop barking, digging holes in your yard and chewing up your treasured items. for much more help and useful solutions why not take a look at: How To Train Your Dog In One Evening.
My name is Emma Everson and I specialize in providing dog training solutions. I have been training dogs for 20 years and have researched extensively in all areas of dog behavior. How To Train Your Dog In One Evening is an outstanding collection of dog training secrets for training your dog quickly, it has entries from experts who collectively have 80 years experience, they include Police dog handlers, show dog trainers and veterinary technicians
Tuesday, 20 April 2010
Dog Training Tricks - Proof That You Can Train Your Dog Yourself
Having problems with your pooch? Is she piddling on the rug? Is he dragging you down the street when you try to walk him? Chewing on your shoes or raiding the trash? Or do you have a new puppy you want to start off on the right track to prevent these problems from ever happening in the first place?
You don't need an expensive trainer for these everyday issues (though I do recommend a professional if you have a particularly aggressive dog that may require special understanding and handling). Nor do you need to attend the pet store "obedience classes" unless you'd just enjoy doing so. I'm going to show you here a couple of tricks to prove to you that you can train your dog to do anything you'd like, within his capability, and do it positively while both of you have fun. Just try them and you'll see for yourself how quick and easy this is.
First, it's important to understand that dogs live to please us. It may not appear so when your dog is ignoring your commands - that's because he doesn't understand your commands or perhaps your method for teaching him has backfired on you, which is the most common problem. What you think you're telling him and what he's thinking may be two very different things.
For example, you may want your dog to "come". Under what circumstances have you been giving that command? Are you yelling it at him for him to come to you only when you're unhappy with him and when he's to be punished somehow? Not exactly motivating. Certainly an unsuccessful approach.
It's well worth a few minutes of play every day to teach your dog to "come" immediately and every time you command it. And I do mean "play", not "work" - it's fun and a great bonding experience. Food is a terrific doggie motivator, so get some small one-bite treats (no big biscuits that take time to eat and thus distract from your goal). When you're sitting there watching TV or at your computer, most anywhere really, tell your dog to "come" with a calm, happy voice and give him a treat when he does. Only one treat, we aren't trying to teach him to beg! A little later, tell him to "come" and give him "lovies", pet him, praise him. Another time, play with him with his favorite toy for a few minutes. Show him that "come" means something good will happen. Do this frequently throughout the day , rotating the rewards, and you'll see that he will soon be happily obeying your command every time. Sounds easy, doesn't it? It is!
Want your dog to be well-behaved on a leash? This, too, is quick and easy, usually just a matter of stopping the walk when pooch starts to pull. Your dog wants to GO, to explore and sniff - that's his motivation and fun. Stopping dead in your tracks keeps him from what he wants to do. Shorten the leash length to keep him at your side and in a calm voice (very important - if you yell or show emotion, you'll just excite him further), tell him to "calm" or "shhh", whatever comes naturally to you, and stand there until he calms down. When he does, continue your walk, repeating this as often as necessary until he understands what you expect from him and learns to "walk nice" (my particular command for a rowdy dog). It can usually be accomplished very quickly, often in a single session with a quick reminder if he forgets it the next time you walk.
When it comes to walking, I believe this is one of the most important things you can do for your dog and for you. It not only gives you both healthy exercise, it allows for deeper bonding and understanding between you, the foundation of trust so important in further training. It also gives your dog that mental stimulation he needs to be well-behaved, socialized and happy. I don't do the "heel" thing when we walk - I have little interest in having a "Stepford" dog. Instead, I want our walks to be his time to stop and sniff (within reason) and to explore. I just insist that he "walk nice" for both of our sakes, which is defined as a loose leash and not losing his mind when he sees other dogs. The training technique I described above usually accomplishes both of these goals.
Just these two techniques I've described can be used with variation to deal with most any issue. For example, want your dog to leave your shoes alone? Give him own chew toy and reward him with a treat at first for choosing that over the seductive shoe. Spend a few minutes each day with this exercise. If that isn't enough, or in addition to the above, you can use the "leave it" command technique. For this, place the shoe in front of him and when he reaches for it, say "leave it", giving him a treat and praising him when he does. Repeat as necessary, making him wait longer and longer for his reward.
Want your dog to be calm when the doorbell rings? Use a variation of the leash training technique and the "shhh" or "calm" command you used on your walks, which he now understands, working with a friend or neighbor who is willing to come over and ring your doorbell until your dog "gets it".
Establish the foundation of reward for the behavior you want and he'll start learning new behaviors very quickly. He'll snap to the reward thing and look forward to learning new things, knowing something good will happen when he does... and just because it's fun!
I've just given you a quick overview here, a place to start. There are many more proven techniques that I hope you'll want to learn now that you know you can train your dog and how rewarding it is for both of you!
If you've found this helpful, please visit us at [http://www.4FurPeople.com] with step-by-step dog training courses including one on more advanced trick training, dog training aids like all-natural training treats, books, DVDs, nutrition and health information and much more! Also visit Pat's Blog at http://petpassionparadise.blogspot.com
You don't need an expensive trainer for these everyday issues (though I do recommend a professional if you have a particularly aggressive dog that may require special understanding and handling). Nor do you need to attend the pet store "obedience classes" unless you'd just enjoy doing so. I'm going to show you here a couple of tricks to prove to you that you can train your dog to do anything you'd like, within his capability, and do it positively while both of you have fun. Just try them and you'll see for yourself how quick and easy this is.
First, it's important to understand that dogs live to please us. It may not appear so when your dog is ignoring your commands - that's because he doesn't understand your commands or perhaps your method for teaching him has backfired on you, which is the most common problem. What you think you're telling him and what he's thinking may be two very different things.
For example, you may want your dog to "come". Under what circumstances have you been giving that command? Are you yelling it at him for him to come to you only when you're unhappy with him and when he's to be punished somehow? Not exactly motivating. Certainly an unsuccessful approach.
It's well worth a few minutes of play every day to teach your dog to "come" immediately and every time you command it. And I do mean "play", not "work" - it's fun and a great bonding experience. Food is a terrific doggie motivator, so get some small one-bite treats (no big biscuits that take time to eat and thus distract from your goal). When you're sitting there watching TV or at your computer, most anywhere really, tell your dog to "come" with a calm, happy voice and give him a treat when he does. Only one treat, we aren't trying to teach him to beg! A little later, tell him to "come" and give him "lovies", pet him, praise him. Another time, play with him with his favorite toy for a few minutes. Show him that "come" means something good will happen. Do this frequently throughout the day , rotating the rewards, and you'll see that he will soon be happily obeying your command every time. Sounds easy, doesn't it? It is!
Want your dog to be well-behaved on a leash? This, too, is quick and easy, usually just a matter of stopping the walk when pooch starts to pull. Your dog wants to GO, to explore and sniff - that's his motivation and fun. Stopping dead in your tracks keeps him from what he wants to do. Shorten the leash length to keep him at your side and in a calm voice (very important - if you yell or show emotion, you'll just excite him further), tell him to "calm" or "shhh", whatever comes naturally to you, and stand there until he calms down. When he does, continue your walk, repeating this as often as necessary until he understands what you expect from him and learns to "walk nice" (my particular command for a rowdy dog). It can usually be accomplished very quickly, often in a single session with a quick reminder if he forgets it the next time you walk.
When it comes to walking, I believe this is one of the most important things you can do for your dog and for you. It not only gives you both healthy exercise, it allows for deeper bonding and understanding between you, the foundation of trust so important in further training. It also gives your dog that mental stimulation he needs to be well-behaved, socialized and happy. I don't do the "heel" thing when we walk - I have little interest in having a "Stepford" dog. Instead, I want our walks to be his time to stop and sniff (within reason) and to explore. I just insist that he "walk nice" for both of our sakes, which is defined as a loose leash and not losing his mind when he sees other dogs. The training technique I described above usually accomplishes both of these goals.
Just these two techniques I've described can be used with variation to deal with most any issue. For example, want your dog to leave your shoes alone? Give him own chew toy and reward him with a treat at first for choosing that over the seductive shoe. Spend a few minutes each day with this exercise. If that isn't enough, or in addition to the above, you can use the "leave it" command technique. For this, place the shoe in front of him and when he reaches for it, say "leave it", giving him a treat and praising him when he does. Repeat as necessary, making him wait longer and longer for his reward.
Want your dog to be calm when the doorbell rings? Use a variation of the leash training technique and the "shhh" or "calm" command you used on your walks, which he now understands, working with a friend or neighbor who is willing to come over and ring your doorbell until your dog "gets it".
Establish the foundation of reward for the behavior you want and he'll start learning new behaviors very quickly. He'll snap to the reward thing and look forward to learning new things, knowing something good will happen when he does... and just because it's fun!
I've just given you a quick overview here, a place to start. There are many more proven techniques that I hope you'll want to learn now that you know you can train your dog and how rewarding it is for both of you!
If you've found this helpful, please visit us at [http://www.4FurPeople.com] with step-by-step dog training courses including one on more advanced trick training, dog training aids like all-natural training treats, books, DVDs, nutrition and health information and much more! Also visit Pat's Blog at http://petpassionparadise.blogspot.com
Rewarding Your Dog For Good Behavior
Most dogs are real people pleasers. That is, you don't have to do a lot to reward your dog's good behavior. Some simple praise or a small treat is often enough to reward a behavior that you want to see continued - such as not chewing on your favorite shoes or the furniture, "holding it" until your dog gets outside, and so on.
But sometimes, you need a little variety, if not for your dog, certainly for yourself. Again, make no mistake; simply praising your dog and making sure he or she gets attention when he or she does something right is a great system to use, you should keep doing it. Your friend needs this love and attention, and you should never quit doing it. There are a few things to keep in mind, though, when it comes rewarding your best friend.
Make it immediate
Dogs really have short attention spans, so when he or she does something good, make sure you reward the behavior immediately. If you don't, the dog is no longer going to associate the treat or reward with the good behavior, and could get confused.
Quality time
A great reward to use is simple quality time with you, playing. A game of catch, tug-of-war, fetching, "hide and seek" - anything that is going to let your dog engage in some rough-and-tumble truly fun physical activity with you is going to reinforce the good behavior you want to instill. There are a couple of reasons for this. One is, of course, that it's rewarding to the dog and he or she will want to do this again; the other thing is that if you keep your dog physically engaged, he or she is less likely to get bored or restless and do something you'd rather he wouldn't, like find your shoes and use them as a chew bone.
Toys
Dogs love toys. Whether it's a favorite stick or ball that he or she plays catch with, or something where problem-solving comes into play, toys are great rewards that, again, are going to also keep your dog engaged and keep behavioral problems to a minimum simply because he or she isn't going to get bored. And again, it's also a great idea if it involves some exercise, since we want to keep our pets healthy, too.
Sometimes, food's the thing
Finally, remember that food treats are absolutely okay as an occasional treat in addition to your dog's diet, as long as it's something your dog can truly have. (Chocolate and raisins, for example, are absolute no-no's and can be poisonous your dog.) Whether it's a favorite occasional doggie treat or something you make yourself, your dog will truly love it. Just remember that like people, dogs can overeat and have problems with food over consumption, too, so make treats a rare thing.
Show love - and discipline
Of course, bad behavior needs to be stopped in its tracks if you see it, but it's much easier and better for your dog, too, if you focus on the good behavior as a matter of course. Showing love to your dog will make him or her love you back and want to please you, too - which will make training your pet a pretty easy job to do.
This article was written by Kelly Marshall of Oh My Dog Supplies -
But sometimes, you need a little variety, if not for your dog, certainly for yourself. Again, make no mistake; simply praising your dog and making sure he or she gets attention when he or she does something right is a great system to use, you should keep doing it. Your friend needs this love and attention, and you should never quit doing it. There are a few things to keep in mind, though, when it comes rewarding your best friend.
Make it immediate
Dogs really have short attention spans, so when he or she does something good, make sure you reward the behavior immediately. If you don't, the dog is no longer going to associate the treat or reward with the good behavior, and could get confused.
Quality time
A great reward to use is simple quality time with you, playing. A game of catch, tug-of-war, fetching, "hide and seek" - anything that is going to let your dog engage in some rough-and-tumble truly fun physical activity with you is going to reinforce the good behavior you want to instill. There are a couple of reasons for this. One is, of course, that it's rewarding to the dog and he or she will want to do this again; the other thing is that if you keep your dog physically engaged, he or she is less likely to get bored or restless and do something you'd rather he wouldn't, like find your shoes and use them as a chew bone.
Toys
Dogs love toys. Whether it's a favorite stick or ball that he or she plays catch with, or something where problem-solving comes into play, toys are great rewards that, again, are going to also keep your dog engaged and keep behavioral problems to a minimum simply because he or she isn't going to get bored. And again, it's also a great idea if it involves some exercise, since we want to keep our pets healthy, too.
Sometimes, food's the thing
Finally, remember that food treats are absolutely okay as an occasional treat in addition to your dog's diet, as long as it's something your dog can truly have. (Chocolate and raisins, for example, are absolute no-no's and can be poisonous your dog.) Whether it's a favorite occasional doggie treat or something you make yourself, your dog will truly love it. Just remember that like people, dogs can overeat and have problems with food over consumption, too, so make treats a rare thing.
Show love - and discipline
Of course, bad behavior needs to be stopped in its tracks if you see it, but it's much easier and better for your dog, too, if you focus on the good behavior as a matter of course. Showing love to your dog will make him or her love you back and want to please you, too - which will make training your pet a pretty easy job to do.
This article was written by Kelly Marshall of Oh My Dog Supplies -
Thursday, 15 April 2010
Training Your Dog To Stop Jumping
Jumping up without an invitation is one of the most common problems owners face with their dogs. However, resolving this issue doesn't have to be time consuming or difficult. With the right techniques and some ol' fashioned consistency you can teach your dog how to mind his manners even when you or a stranger comes into your home.
Causes
Over Excitement and no socialization - dogs that are not used to seeing strangers on a regular basis may become over excited exuberant.
Too Much Energy - If your dog is bouncing off the walls like rubber then the likelihood of him jumping up will increase times ten! Dogs that don't get enough exercise will often display unwanted behaviors to drain their energy.
No Prior Training - Dogs are not born with the knowledge of how to greet humans. It's up to us to teach them the right way. If your dog has not been taught how to properly greet someone then it's unfair to expect him not to make up his own rules.
How to resolve this problem
Teach your dog! - Make time to show your dog exactly what behavior is acceptable and what is not. Often times teaching a solid sit/stay is very effective at curbing a jumping dog. If he's sitting, he can't be jumping.
Get Control - Leash up your dog when company comes over so you have an easy way to control him. Keeping a leash right by the door for easy access is a good idea. If your dog pulls on the leash, lunges at people or otherwise has no respect for the fact that YOU are on the other end of that lead, then a training collar such as the "Prong" can help you get control fast. Think power steering for dogs. (always consult a trainer for poper fitting and use of a prong)
Be consistent - Allowing your dog to jump up some of the time, but not all the time is confusing for him. Set the ground rules and stick to them!
Okay, I have control, a training collar and the will to be consistent...now what?!
Now, you control the situation.
Leash your dog
Ask your dog to sit
Open door
At this point many dogs will attempt to get up, calmly place him back into a sit.
Invite the visitor inside
If your dog attempts to jump up the training collar will do most of the work of "correcting" him for the unwanted behavior, all you need to do is place him back into a sit. If you must do this twenty times, then you must do it twenty times.
Praise your dog for the right behavior! This is very important. You've told him what you DON'T want to see, now tell him what you DO want to see. He needs the complete picture to really learn what you expect of him.
Wash, rinse and repeat.
Enlisting the help of a friend to play the part of a 'visitor' can be a big help. This way you can practicing many times in a row without worrying about your guest.
Practice, practice! You know the saying, practice makes perfect. Dogs are like cars in that they need regular 'tune ups' to keep in proper working order. Keep practicing with your dog and he'll keep responding.
Use space to your advantage - Use the same technique your dog is using to curb his jumping up on YOU. Quickly step into his space as he jumps. A loud "EH AH" and a hand clap can help to get your point across. Then show him what you do want, ask for a sit and praise when he does. He wants your attention, so make sure he only gets it when all four paws are on the floor!
Exercise - A tired dog is a good dog. Proper exercise can help to curb many unwanted behaviors and making it easier for you to control the training sessions. Most dogs need at least 30 minutes of hard running to be civilized pets.
Ann Griffin runs a pet resource website at CentralPetz.com, a place for pet owners to find dog training articles, contests, dog forums and more
Causes
Over Excitement and no socialization - dogs that are not used to seeing strangers on a regular basis may become over excited exuberant.
Too Much Energy - If your dog is bouncing off the walls like rubber then the likelihood of him jumping up will increase times ten! Dogs that don't get enough exercise will often display unwanted behaviors to drain their energy.
No Prior Training - Dogs are not born with the knowledge of how to greet humans. It's up to us to teach them the right way. If your dog has not been taught how to properly greet someone then it's unfair to expect him not to make up his own rules.
How to resolve this problem
Teach your dog! - Make time to show your dog exactly what behavior is acceptable and what is not. Often times teaching a solid sit/stay is very effective at curbing a jumping dog. If he's sitting, he can't be jumping.
Get Control - Leash up your dog when company comes over so you have an easy way to control him. Keeping a leash right by the door for easy access is a good idea. If your dog pulls on the leash, lunges at people or otherwise has no respect for the fact that YOU are on the other end of that lead, then a training collar such as the "Prong" can help you get control fast. Think power steering for dogs. (always consult a trainer for poper fitting and use of a prong)
Be consistent - Allowing your dog to jump up some of the time, but not all the time is confusing for him. Set the ground rules and stick to them!
Okay, I have control, a training collar and the will to be consistent...now what?!
Now, you control the situation.
Leash your dog
Ask your dog to sit
Open door
At this point many dogs will attempt to get up, calmly place him back into a sit.
Invite the visitor inside
If your dog attempts to jump up the training collar will do most of the work of "correcting" him for the unwanted behavior, all you need to do is place him back into a sit. If you must do this twenty times, then you must do it twenty times.
Praise your dog for the right behavior! This is very important. You've told him what you DON'T want to see, now tell him what you DO want to see. He needs the complete picture to really learn what you expect of him.
Wash, rinse and repeat.
Enlisting the help of a friend to play the part of a 'visitor' can be a big help. This way you can practicing many times in a row without worrying about your guest.
Practice, practice! You know the saying, practice makes perfect. Dogs are like cars in that they need regular 'tune ups' to keep in proper working order. Keep practicing with your dog and he'll keep responding.
Use space to your advantage - Use the same technique your dog is using to curb his jumping up on YOU. Quickly step into his space as he jumps. A loud "EH AH" and a hand clap can help to get your point across. Then show him what you do want, ask for a sit and praise when he does. He wants your attention, so make sure he only gets it when all four paws are on the floor!
Exercise - A tired dog is a good dog. Proper exercise can help to curb many unwanted behaviors and making it easier for you to control the training sessions. Most dogs need at least 30 minutes of hard running to be civilized pets.
Ann Griffin runs a pet resource website at CentralPetz.com, a place for pet owners to find dog training articles, contests, dog forums and more
Monday, 12 April 2010
Leash Training Your Dog
Training your dog to not pull on the leash
One of the most common problems people have with their dogs is pulling on the leash. There are many reasons why this can occur, and quite often it is nothing more than excitement on the dogs part. If this is the case, allowing the dog a few minutes to simmer down before taking it on his/her walk can often stop it.
Once again, the dogs pack mentality can come to play with the dog assuming leadership over its owner as the leader of the pack. This comes back to the basics of dog training where the dog must be aware of who the master is.
Failure to get this basic dog training technique under control can lead to all sorts of problems, particularly if the dog gets off the leash. In the presence of other dogs, and sometimes young children this problem becomes pronounced.
One of the basics of dog training is for the owner to establish him or herself as the leader of the pack otherwise no training can be effective.
Once this has been established you can start the process of getting your dog to walk calmly beside you with or without a leash. And that process can only start if you are able to get your dog to sit calmly while you put the leash around its neck. That is the very first step of training your dog to walk without pulling in its leash.
Once you succeed in that task, you can move on to the next step where you can get your dog to walk beside you without a leash and be assured that he/she won't run away.
And from there you will not be one of those people where the dog is taking them for a walk.
Stop Your Dog Jumping on People
Dog Quote: They have dog food for constipated dogs. If your dog is constipated, why screw up a good thing? Stay indoors and let 'em bloat! ....David Letterman
Jumping on People
No matter how much we might enjoy our pet jumping up to greet us, there are many people who dislike having a strange dog coming up and jumping on them. For many people it can be a frightening experience as not everyone is a dog lover.
Besides that, many people just don't want dirty paw marks over their clothing.
It can also create major problems if a large dog were to jump up on a child or an elderly person.
Dogs will generally jump up on people because they are overly excited and pleased to see them - even if that person is a stranger.
Many people inadvertently encourage this behavior by rewarding the dog with attention after the dog has jumped up on them. The dog then seeks similar reward from other people whether they like it or not.
This is detrimental to the proper training of the dog and all members of the family must realize that they're doing more harm than good by encouraging their dog to jump up on people.
Consistency is important in all forms of dog training, where members of the dog's family will need to exercise discipline and accept that training will be all the more difficult if the dog is allowed to continue with this behavior.
Failure to do so will lead to confusion with the pet not knowing what is right or wrong.
An alternative to having your dog jump up on you and other people is to teach it to sit and lift it's paw when greeting you for a handshake or similar tricks where the dog will be rewarded with attention.
I'm an online publisher of web content and blogs pertaining to the needs and wants of the public.
I'm also a business coach, and my coaching web can be found at http://www.course-internet-marketing.com ... do check out my latest blog about dogs at ... [http://dog-health-and-training.com/] ...consider signing up for my dog blog articles about the latest in canine health care and training.
One of the most common problems people have with their dogs is pulling on the leash. There are many reasons why this can occur, and quite often it is nothing more than excitement on the dogs part. If this is the case, allowing the dog a few minutes to simmer down before taking it on his/her walk can often stop it.
Once again, the dogs pack mentality can come to play with the dog assuming leadership over its owner as the leader of the pack. This comes back to the basics of dog training where the dog must be aware of who the master is.
Failure to get this basic dog training technique under control can lead to all sorts of problems, particularly if the dog gets off the leash. In the presence of other dogs, and sometimes young children this problem becomes pronounced.
One of the basics of dog training is for the owner to establish him or herself as the leader of the pack otherwise no training can be effective.
Once this has been established you can start the process of getting your dog to walk calmly beside you with or without a leash. And that process can only start if you are able to get your dog to sit calmly while you put the leash around its neck. That is the very first step of training your dog to walk without pulling in its leash.
Once you succeed in that task, you can move on to the next step where you can get your dog to walk beside you without a leash and be assured that he/she won't run away.
And from there you will not be one of those people where the dog is taking them for a walk.
Stop Your Dog Jumping on People
Dog Quote: They have dog food for constipated dogs. If your dog is constipated, why screw up a good thing? Stay indoors and let 'em bloat! ....David Letterman
Jumping on People
No matter how much we might enjoy our pet jumping up to greet us, there are many people who dislike having a strange dog coming up and jumping on them. For many people it can be a frightening experience as not everyone is a dog lover.
Besides that, many people just don't want dirty paw marks over their clothing.
It can also create major problems if a large dog were to jump up on a child or an elderly person.
Dogs will generally jump up on people because they are overly excited and pleased to see them - even if that person is a stranger.
Many people inadvertently encourage this behavior by rewarding the dog with attention after the dog has jumped up on them. The dog then seeks similar reward from other people whether they like it or not.
This is detrimental to the proper training of the dog and all members of the family must realize that they're doing more harm than good by encouraging their dog to jump up on people.
Consistency is important in all forms of dog training, where members of the dog's family will need to exercise discipline and accept that training will be all the more difficult if the dog is allowed to continue with this behavior.
Failure to do so will lead to confusion with the pet not knowing what is right or wrong.
An alternative to having your dog jump up on you and other people is to teach it to sit and lift it's paw when greeting you for a handshake or similar tricks where the dog will be rewarded with attention.
I'm an online publisher of web content and blogs pertaining to the needs and wants of the public.
I'm also a business coach, and my coaching web can be found at http://www.course-internet-marketing.com ... do check out my latest blog about dogs at ... [http://dog-health-and-training.com/] ...consider signing up for my dog blog articles about the latest in canine health care and training.
Dog Training Tricks - Proof That You Can Train Your Dog Yourself
Having problems with your pooch? Is she piddling on the rug? Is he dragging you down the street when you try to walk him? Chewing on your shoes or raiding the trash? Or do you have a new puppy you want to start off on the right track to prevent these problems from ever happening in the first place?
You don't need an expensive trainer for these everyday issues (though I do recommend a professional if you have a particularly aggressive dog that may require special understanding and handling). Nor do you need to attend the pet store "obedience classes" unless you'd just enjoy doing so. I'm going to show you here a couple of tricks to prove to you that you can train your dog to do anything you'd like, within his capability, and do it positively while both of you have fun. Just try them and you'll see for yourself how quick and easy this is.
First, it's important to understand that dogs live to please us. It may not appear so when your dog is ignoring your commands - that's because he doesn't understand your commands or perhaps your method for teaching him has backfired on you, which is the most common problem. What you think you're telling him and what he's thinking may be two very different things.
For example, you may want your dog to "come". Under what circumstances have you been giving that command? Are you yelling it at him for him to come to you only when you're unhappy with him and when he's to be punished somehow? Not exactly motivating. Certainly an unsuccessful approach.
It's well worth a few minutes of play every day to teach your dog to "come" immediately and every time you command it. And I do mean "play", not "work" - it's fun and a great bonding experience. Food is a terrific doggie motivator, so get some small one-bite treats (no big biscuits that take time to eat and thus distract from your goal). When you're sitting there watching TV or at your computer, most anywhere really, tell your dog to "come" with a calm, happy voice and give him a treat when he does. Only one treat, we aren't trying to teach him to beg! A little later, tell him to "come" and give him "lovies", pet him, praise him. Another time, play with him with his favorite toy for a few minutes. Show him that "come" means something good will happen. Do this frequently throughout the day , rotating the rewards, and you'll see that he will soon be happily obeying your command every time. Sounds easy, doesn't it? It is!
Want your dog to be well-behaved on a leash? This, too, is quick and easy, usually just a matter of stopping the walk when pooch starts to pull. Your dog wants to GO, to explore and sniff - that's his motivation and fun. Stopping dead in your tracks keeps him from what he wants to do. Shorten the leash length to keep him at your side and in a calm voice (very important - if you yell or show emotion, you'll just excite him further), tell him to "calm" or "shhh", whatever comes naturally to you, and stand there until he calms down. When he does, continue your walk, repeating this as often as necessary until he understands what you expect from him and learns to "walk nice" (my particular command for a rowdy dog). It can usually be accomplished very quickly, often in a single session with a quick reminder if he forgets it the next time you walk.
When it comes to walking, I believe this is one of the most important things you can do for your dog and for you. It not only gives you both healthy exercise, it allows for deeper bonding and understanding between you, the foundation of trust so important in further training. It also gives your dog that mental stimulation he needs to be well-behaved, socialized and happy. I don't do the "heel" thing when we walk - I have little interest in having a "Stepford" dog. Instead, I want our walks to be his time to stop and sniff (within reason) and to explore. I just insist that he "walk nice" for both of our sakes, which is defined as a loose leash and not losing his mind when he sees other dogs. The training technique I described above usually accomplishes both of these goals.
Just these two techniques I've described can be used with variation to deal with most any issue. For example, want your dog to leave your shoes alone? Give him own chew toy and reward him with a treat at first for choosing that over the seductive shoe. Spend a few minutes each day with this exercise. If that isn't enough, or in addition to the above, you can use the "leave it" command technique. For this, place the shoe in front of him and when he reaches for it, say "leave it", giving him a treat and praising him when he does. Repeat as necessary, making him wait longer and longer for his reward.
Want your dog to be calm when the doorbell rings? Use a variation of the leash training technique and the "shhh" or "calm" command you used on your walks, which he now understands, working with a friend or neighbor who is willing to come over and ring your doorbell until your dog "gets it".
Establish the foundation of reward for the behavior you want and he'll start learning new behaviors very quickly. He'll snap to the reward thing and look forward to learning new things, knowing something good will happen when he does... and just because it's fun!
I've just given you a quick overview here, a place to start. There are many more proven techniques that I hope you'll want to learn now that you know you can train your dog and how rewarding it is for both of you!
If you've found this helpful, please visit us at [http://www.4FurPeople.com] with step-by-step dog training courses including one on more advanced trick training, dog training aids like all-natural training treats, books, DVDs, nutrition and health information and much more! Also visit Pat's Blog at
You don't need an expensive trainer for these everyday issues (though I do recommend a professional if you have a particularly aggressive dog that may require special understanding and handling). Nor do you need to attend the pet store "obedience classes" unless you'd just enjoy doing so. I'm going to show you here a couple of tricks to prove to you that you can train your dog to do anything you'd like, within his capability, and do it positively while both of you have fun. Just try them and you'll see for yourself how quick and easy this is.
First, it's important to understand that dogs live to please us. It may not appear so when your dog is ignoring your commands - that's because he doesn't understand your commands or perhaps your method for teaching him has backfired on you, which is the most common problem. What you think you're telling him and what he's thinking may be two very different things.
For example, you may want your dog to "come". Under what circumstances have you been giving that command? Are you yelling it at him for him to come to you only when you're unhappy with him and when he's to be punished somehow? Not exactly motivating. Certainly an unsuccessful approach.
It's well worth a few minutes of play every day to teach your dog to "come" immediately and every time you command it. And I do mean "play", not "work" - it's fun and a great bonding experience. Food is a terrific doggie motivator, so get some small one-bite treats (no big biscuits that take time to eat and thus distract from your goal). When you're sitting there watching TV or at your computer, most anywhere really, tell your dog to "come" with a calm, happy voice and give him a treat when he does. Only one treat, we aren't trying to teach him to beg! A little later, tell him to "come" and give him "lovies", pet him, praise him. Another time, play with him with his favorite toy for a few minutes. Show him that "come" means something good will happen. Do this frequently throughout the day , rotating the rewards, and you'll see that he will soon be happily obeying your command every time. Sounds easy, doesn't it? It is!
Want your dog to be well-behaved on a leash? This, too, is quick and easy, usually just a matter of stopping the walk when pooch starts to pull. Your dog wants to GO, to explore and sniff - that's his motivation and fun. Stopping dead in your tracks keeps him from what he wants to do. Shorten the leash length to keep him at your side and in a calm voice (very important - if you yell or show emotion, you'll just excite him further), tell him to "calm" or "shhh", whatever comes naturally to you, and stand there until he calms down. When he does, continue your walk, repeating this as often as necessary until he understands what you expect from him and learns to "walk nice" (my particular command for a rowdy dog). It can usually be accomplished very quickly, often in a single session with a quick reminder if he forgets it the next time you walk.
When it comes to walking, I believe this is one of the most important things you can do for your dog and for you. It not only gives you both healthy exercise, it allows for deeper bonding and understanding between you, the foundation of trust so important in further training. It also gives your dog that mental stimulation he needs to be well-behaved, socialized and happy. I don't do the "heel" thing when we walk - I have little interest in having a "Stepford" dog. Instead, I want our walks to be his time to stop and sniff (within reason) and to explore. I just insist that he "walk nice" for both of our sakes, which is defined as a loose leash and not losing his mind when he sees other dogs. The training technique I described above usually accomplishes both of these goals.
Just these two techniques I've described can be used with variation to deal with most any issue. For example, want your dog to leave your shoes alone? Give him own chew toy and reward him with a treat at first for choosing that over the seductive shoe. Spend a few minutes each day with this exercise. If that isn't enough, or in addition to the above, you can use the "leave it" command technique. For this, place the shoe in front of him and when he reaches for it, say "leave it", giving him a treat and praising him when he does. Repeat as necessary, making him wait longer and longer for his reward.
Want your dog to be calm when the doorbell rings? Use a variation of the leash training technique and the "shhh" or "calm" command you used on your walks, which he now understands, working with a friend or neighbor who is willing to come over and ring your doorbell until your dog "gets it".
Establish the foundation of reward for the behavior you want and he'll start learning new behaviors very quickly. He'll snap to the reward thing and look forward to learning new things, knowing something good will happen when he does... and just because it's fun!
I've just given you a quick overview here, a place to start. There are many more proven techniques that I hope you'll want to learn now that you know you can train your dog and how rewarding it is for both of you!
If you've found this helpful, please visit us at [http://www.4FurPeople.com] with step-by-step dog training courses including one on more advanced trick training, dog training aids like all-natural training treats, books, DVDs, nutrition and health information and much more! Also visit Pat's Blog at
Training Your Dog to Stop Chewing
Puppies are going to naturally go through a developmental phase that includes chewing almost everything in sight. They do this to help with the pain of their teeth cutting through their gums. This is very similar to what infant babies go through. Usually puppies will stop this chewing behavior at about nine months old when all of their teeth have come through. If your dog has reached one year of age and is still chewing everything in sight, it may be a sign that you need to look at the behavior further.
Chewing can be a habit that your dog acquires because of boredom, anxiety, or even frustration. It doesn't matter why your dog chews, the behavior can be dangerous to your dog and can very expensive for you. The first step in stopping your dog's chewing problem is to catch him in the process of chewing something. You can limit the amount of items your dog has available to chew by offering them constant supervision and eliminating some of their favorite chew items such as shoes.
Once you catch your dog in the process of chewing and item, make it known that this is not the correct behavior for your puppy. Continue to offer your puppy very limited time to roam the house and always supervise. With this constant supervision, it offers you the opportunity to catch your dog in the act of chewing. When you are not able to offer the constant supervision necessary to keep your dog from chewing items, it is important to combine them in a small area or crate. In their crate, offer them appropriate chew toys so they begin to learn which type of toys they can chew and which items they should not be chewing.
Give your dog a special spot in the house where they can keep their favorite chew toys. Always keep these safe dog toys in this area alone; that way the dog will always know where to go when they feel like they need to chew on something. Some of the most popular chew toys for dogs are old socks, rawhide, safe toys, and knucklebones. Many people say that Rawhide should only be given to dogs while you are there to supervise because sometimes pieces can break off and cause your puppy to choke.
Anytime you are trying to teach your puppy to behave in a certain manner, it is important to provide stability in the training. Be consistent in your commands and provide only appropriate toys to chew on. If you do not want your dog to chew on shoes, don't offer them an old shoe as a chew toy. If you want your dog to stay away from the children's squeaky toys, don't offer them squeaky dog toys to chew on.
One final tip - many dog owners have returned from a quick dash into the grocery store, only to return to their car and find a massive chunk of the back seat chewed through. To protect against this, equip your vehicle with a car seat cover designed for pets. This will serve as a barrier & your puppy won't be able to sink his teeth into the meaty seats.
After a successful long term period of being chew-free, give him a comfortable dog bed to rest on (now that you are confident that he won't destroy it!)
Other recent articles by Kelly Marshall include topics on pet health care concerns and grooming long haired dog breeds
Chewing can be a habit that your dog acquires because of boredom, anxiety, or even frustration. It doesn't matter why your dog chews, the behavior can be dangerous to your dog and can very expensive for you. The first step in stopping your dog's chewing problem is to catch him in the process of chewing something. You can limit the amount of items your dog has available to chew by offering them constant supervision and eliminating some of their favorite chew items such as shoes.
Once you catch your dog in the process of chewing and item, make it known that this is not the correct behavior for your puppy. Continue to offer your puppy very limited time to roam the house and always supervise. With this constant supervision, it offers you the opportunity to catch your dog in the act of chewing. When you are not able to offer the constant supervision necessary to keep your dog from chewing items, it is important to combine them in a small area or crate. In their crate, offer them appropriate chew toys so they begin to learn which type of toys they can chew and which items they should not be chewing.
Give your dog a special spot in the house where they can keep their favorite chew toys. Always keep these safe dog toys in this area alone; that way the dog will always know where to go when they feel like they need to chew on something. Some of the most popular chew toys for dogs are old socks, rawhide, safe toys, and knucklebones. Many people say that Rawhide should only be given to dogs while you are there to supervise because sometimes pieces can break off and cause your puppy to choke.
Anytime you are trying to teach your puppy to behave in a certain manner, it is important to provide stability in the training. Be consistent in your commands and provide only appropriate toys to chew on. If you do not want your dog to chew on shoes, don't offer them an old shoe as a chew toy. If you want your dog to stay away from the children's squeaky toys, don't offer them squeaky dog toys to chew on.
One final tip - many dog owners have returned from a quick dash into the grocery store, only to return to their car and find a massive chunk of the back seat chewed through. To protect against this, equip your vehicle with a car seat cover designed for pets. This will serve as a barrier & your puppy won't be able to sink his teeth into the meaty seats.
After a successful long term period of being chew-free, give him a comfortable dog bed to rest on (now that you are confident that he won't destroy it!)
Other recent articles by Kelly Marshall include topics on pet health care concerns and grooming long haired dog breeds
Thursday, 8 April 2010
Puppy Socialization - Don't Neglect This Important Part of Training Your Dog
Let's face it, as a new dog owner, you probably haven't thought too much about puppy socialization. However, this is a very important part of dog training. Many cases of canine aggression could have been prevented if the dog's owner had only known how to socialize a puppy.
Why Is It So Important To Socialize Your Dog?
When you expose your dog to lots of different people, different animals, and different places, he learns for himself that new sights, sounds, and people are fun, not scary.
It's better to start socializing your dog while he's still a puppy. You may not know that the best age to socialize a puppy is when he's between the ages of three and twelve weeks. A young dog who has good experiences with new people, other dogs, and even cats will be much friendlier and less fearful of people. This helps to prevent aggressive dog behavior towards strangers when he gets older.
However, it's never too late to socialize your dog. It may take a little longer with an older dog, but you can still use canine socialization in order to help your pooch overcome a fear of strangers and be a happier, more trustworthy friend.
What's The Best Way To Socialize A Puppy?
Actually it's not that difficult to socialize your dog, if you're willing to make a little effort.
Many dog trainers suggest a puppy preschool. This is a series of group-training classes for puppies and their owners. Usually there are about 10 puppies and their people, along with a couple of dog trainers. During these classes, the puppies start to learn basic dog obedience commands like sit, stay, and others.
But the obedience lessons aren't the most important part of puppy preschool. The play sessions are where your puppy learns essential social skills. During the play sessions, the puppies are let off their leashes and allowed to play with each other. Why is this important?
First, your puppy is learning how to get along with unfamiliar dogs.
Second, since there are other dog owners and a couple of dog trainers present, this means lots of unfamiliar people, too. This is a great way for your puppy to learn not to be afraid of new people.
Third, it's a controlled environment. The dog trainers make sure things don't get too wild.
Don't Stop Puppy Socialization Too Soon
Many dog owners make the mistake of thinking that since their dog has been to puppy preschool, their puppy is now socialized. This mistaken idea can lead to problems later on.
It's important to continue to expose your young dog to new faces, new animals, and new places. Sometimes puppies who seemed to be well socialized at a younger age "forget" those early lessons. By the time your dog is between eight months and two years old, he may become fearful of people and start showing canine aggression towards strangers.
Here's some food for thought: even though your puppy has learned basic skills during his first few months, it's important to keep reinforcing puppy socialization lessons throughout your dog's life.
Darlene Norris worked at a vet clinic and an animal shelter, and has had lots of experience with dogs. Visit her new website, No More Bad Dogs, to learn more about puppy socialization. Discover which dog training course she recommends at http://NoMoreBadDogs.com
Why Is It So Important To Socialize Your Dog?
When you expose your dog to lots of different people, different animals, and different places, he learns for himself that new sights, sounds, and people are fun, not scary.
It's better to start socializing your dog while he's still a puppy. You may not know that the best age to socialize a puppy is when he's between the ages of three and twelve weeks. A young dog who has good experiences with new people, other dogs, and even cats will be much friendlier and less fearful of people. This helps to prevent aggressive dog behavior towards strangers when he gets older.
However, it's never too late to socialize your dog. It may take a little longer with an older dog, but you can still use canine socialization in order to help your pooch overcome a fear of strangers and be a happier, more trustworthy friend.
What's The Best Way To Socialize A Puppy?
Actually it's not that difficult to socialize your dog, if you're willing to make a little effort.
Many dog trainers suggest a puppy preschool. This is a series of group-training classes for puppies and their owners. Usually there are about 10 puppies and their people, along with a couple of dog trainers. During these classes, the puppies start to learn basic dog obedience commands like sit, stay, and others.
But the obedience lessons aren't the most important part of puppy preschool. The play sessions are where your puppy learns essential social skills. During the play sessions, the puppies are let off their leashes and allowed to play with each other. Why is this important?
First, your puppy is learning how to get along with unfamiliar dogs.
Second, since there are other dog owners and a couple of dog trainers present, this means lots of unfamiliar people, too. This is a great way for your puppy to learn not to be afraid of new people.
Third, it's a controlled environment. The dog trainers make sure things don't get too wild.
Don't Stop Puppy Socialization Too Soon
Many dog owners make the mistake of thinking that since their dog has been to puppy preschool, their puppy is now socialized. This mistaken idea can lead to problems later on.
It's important to continue to expose your young dog to new faces, new animals, and new places. Sometimes puppies who seemed to be well socialized at a younger age "forget" those early lessons. By the time your dog is between eight months and two years old, he may become fearful of people and start showing canine aggression towards strangers.
Here's some food for thought: even though your puppy has learned basic skills during his first few months, it's important to keep reinforcing puppy socialization lessons throughout your dog's life.
Darlene Norris worked at a vet clinic and an animal shelter, and has had lots of experience with dogs. Visit her new website, No More Bad Dogs, to learn more about puppy socialization. Discover which dog training course she recommends at http://NoMoreBadDogs.com
Clicker Training Your Dog - Are You Making a Big Mistake?
Most people know that clicker training your dog can be a fun and rewarding experience. However, some dog parents give up on clicker training too soon because they don't understand the basic fundamentals behind operant conditioning (the science behind how clicker training works).
In order to clicker train your dog effectively you need to avoid these common mistakes:
1. Not Using the Correct Treats
Commercial dog treats or pieces of kibble are ineffective training tools. If you knew your paycheck was going to be worth $25 at the end of the week, how motivated would you be to go to work? What about $1000? These treats rank pretty low on the totem pole in terms of "excitability".
"Real" human food is worth much more to your dog than boring pieces of treats and kibble. Just don't get too crazy. We're talking pea-size portions of food like cooked chicken, cheese, Cheerios, etc.
Plus--most commercial dog treats take way too long for your dog to chew. By the time he finishes eating the treat, he's already forgotten how he earned it!
2. Training a Dog on a Full Stomach
After you finish eating a spaghetti dinner do you order out for pizza? Hopefully not! This one should be pretty self-explanatory. If you expect your dog to work for food he'll be a lot more excited about the idea if he's hungry.
3. Using the Clicker to Fix a Problem
The clicker is used for teaching a new behavior, not for stopping a behavior the dog has already learned how to do. Does your dog jump up on people? Then you need to teach him this trick: Sitting When People Come to the Door is More Rewarding Than Jumping.
4. Using the Clicker as a Remote Control
The clicker should never be used as a remote control to get your dog's attention or to get him to come to you. Yes, that works pretty well at first but eventually the clicker will lose it's great power as a source of information for your dog.
Instead, the clicker should always be used a camera, capturing the exact moment in time when you see your dog doing something right.
Unfortunately, these common mistakes are just the tip of the iceberg. In fact, 9 out of 10 "professional" dog trainers do not understand the science correctly! It's no wonder so many dog parents have become frustrated with clicker training!
As a licensed veterinary technician, I recommend Clicker Training: The 4 Secrets of Becoming a Super Trainer, as the #1 resource for learning how to clicker train your dog with the least amount of setbacks. If you think about it, clicker training your dog is a lot like a race car. Great speed potential but you must know how to drive it!
I've found that most other websites and books just hand you the keys, put the pedal to the metal, and assume you won't end up driving you and your dog into a wall. The authors of Clicker Training Secrets are much smarter than that! They give you the keys, but also supply a road-map and don't shift gears until both you and your dog are ready.
If you're ready for the winning track visit http://www.clickertrainingsecrets.com today
In order to clicker train your dog effectively you need to avoid these common mistakes:
1. Not Using the Correct Treats
Commercial dog treats or pieces of kibble are ineffective training tools. If you knew your paycheck was going to be worth $25 at the end of the week, how motivated would you be to go to work? What about $1000? These treats rank pretty low on the totem pole in terms of "excitability".
"Real" human food is worth much more to your dog than boring pieces of treats and kibble. Just don't get too crazy. We're talking pea-size portions of food like cooked chicken, cheese, Cheerios, etc.
Plus--most commercial dog treats take way too long for your dog to chew. By the time he finishes eating the treat, he's already forgotten how he earned it!
2. Training a Dog on a Full Stomach
After you finish eating a spaghetti dinner do you order out for pizza? Hopefully not! This one should be pretty self-explanatory. If you expect your dog to work for food he'll be a lot more excited about the idea if he's hungry.
3. Using the Clicker to Fix a Problem
The clicker is used for teaching a new behavior, not for stopping a behavior the dog has already learned how to do. Does your dog jump up on people? Then you need to teach him this trick: Sitting When People Come to the Door is More Rewarding Than Jumping.
4. Using the Clicker as a Remote Control
The clicker should never be used as a remote control to get your dog's attention or to get him to come to you. Yes, that works pretty well at first but eventually the clicker will lose it's great power as a source of information for your dog.
Instead, the clicker should always be used a camera, capturing the exact moment in time when you see your dog doing something right.
Unfortunately, these common mistakes are just the tip of the iceberg. In fact, 9 out of 10 "professional" dog trainers do not understand the science correctly! It's no wonder so many dog parents have become frustrated with clicker training!
As a licensed veterinary technician, I recommend Clicker Training: The 4 Secrets of Becoming a Super Trainer, as the #1 resource for learning how to clicker train your dog with the least amount of setbacks. If you think about it, clicker training your dog is a lot like a race car. Great speed potential but you must know how to drive it!
I've found that most other websites and books just hand you the keys, put the pedal to the metal, and assume you won't end up driving you and your dog into a wall. The authors of Clicker Training Secrets are much smarter than that! They give you the keys, but also supply a road-map and don't shift gears until both you and your dog are ready.
If you're ready for the winning track visit http://www.clickertrainingsecrets.com today
Train Your Dog Responsibly
There are many tips, colums, advice, newsletters, etc for teaching one how to train their dog. This is a necessary "evil", because most people don't like to have to do it, but it must be done if you are to avoid your dog having behavioral problems.
Due to the highly social nature of dogs, their ability to be placed into human households, their temperament, playfulness, ability to be trained, and how dogs will react when encountering other people and animals, all depend on this.
Offered here are a few tips on getting started with your dog's training:
First and foremost, you should be or strive to become a responsible owner. This means researching the background of the particular animal you are thinking about owning.
Also, you should research not only the animal, but also its behavior, and lifestyle before buying and/or owning it.
Think about, beforehand, the environment on which to place this animal and make sure you are ready to handle its upkeep. No sense owning a dog that you aren't sure about keeping or even wanting in the first place.
A dog's happiness should be taken into account before owning.
Now that you own your dog, you can get to its training.
A word of caution: Be very cautious of "free dog training" programs, courses, etc. You usually get what you paid for and since you didn't pay anything, chances are, that you won't get anything either.
Start with basic dog training tactics before more advanced ones.
Try to maintain consistency with your training methods. The number one thing that dog training gurus preach is repetition. You learned from repetition, right? So do dogs.
The more you train them on something, the faster they will start to "get it". This does require patience however, so you must exercise a lot of it.
Do not ever hit your dog for any reason. This will only instill fear in your pet and does neither of you any good. It is the quickest way to hold up any training that you are doing. Don't sabotage your training by hitting your dog.
Dogs will always do something you don't like. Be prepared for this and don't respond by hitting it. Go to your dog to administer proper training rather than trying to have it come to you. It is not ready for this yet. You'll get there.
Reward is a biggie. If you dog does something that you do like, reward it. Give it some extra petting and encouragement, a nice treat, or something of that nature. Always reward good behavior so that it learns good behavior all of the time.
Another thing that is important to understand if you have a family is that everyone should understand that the dog is being trained. They should be involved in the process too so that the dog's training doesn't have to stop simply because you are not around.
You also want the dog to respect other members of your family too. You don't ever want your dog to think he can dominant another member of your family.
These suggestions are meant to get you going in the right direction if you want to own and train your dog responsibly, as you should.
Keep your dog healthy and happy. You can find more information and general resources on training your dog, behavior problems, natural dog food, and much more by visiting www.DogsDomain.com
Due to the highly social nature of dogs, their ability to be placed into human households, their temperament, playfulness, ability to be trained, and how dogs will react when encountering other people and animals, all depend on this.
Offered here are a few tips on getting started with your dog's training:
First and foremost, you should be or strive to become a responsible owner. This means researching the background of the particular animal you are thinking about owning.
Also, you should research not only the animal, but also its behavior, and lifestyle before buying and/or owning it.
Think about, beforehand, the environment on which to place this animal and make sure you are ready to handle its upkeep. No sense owning a dog that you aren't sure about keeping or even wanting in the first place.
A dog's happiness should be taken into account before owning.
Now that you own your dog, you can get to its training.
A word of caution: Be very cautious of "free dog training" programs, courses, etc. You usually get what you paid for and since you didn't pay anything, chances are, that you won't get anything either.
Start with basic dog training tactics before more advanced ones.
Try to maintain consistency with your training methods. The number one thing that dog training gurus preach is repetition. You learned from repetition, right? So do dogs.
The more you train them on something, the faster they will start to "get it". This does require patience however, so you must exercise a lot of it.
Do not ever hit your dog for any reason. This will only instill fear in your pet and does neither of you any good. It is the quickest way to hold up any training that you are doing. Don't sabotage your training by hitting your dog.
Dogs will always do something you don't like. Be prepared for this and don't respond by hitting it. Go to your dog to administer proper training rather than trying to have it come to you. It is not ready for this yet. You'll get there.
Reward is a biggie. If you dog does something that you do like, reward it. Give it some extra petting and encouragement, a nice treat, or something of that nature. Always reward good behavior so that it learns good behavior all of the time.
Another thing that is important to understand if you have a family is that everyone should understand that the dog is being trained. They should be involved in the process too so that the dog's training doesn't have to stop simply because you are not around.
You also want the dog to respect other members of your family too. You don't ever want your dog to think he can dominant another member of your family.
These suggestions are meant to get you going in the right direction if you want to own and train your dog responsibly, as you should.
Keep your dog healthy and happy. You can find more information and general resources on training your dog, behavior problems, natural dog food, and much more by visiting www.DogsDomain.com
How to Train Your Dog to Stop Biting
Biting in dogs is one of the most serious of discipline behavior problems. In small or very young dogs, biting may be a simple form of playfulness, but if a dog is much older, biting may be much more serious and may need to be handled by a professional training course or individual. There are simple techniques you can use train your dog to stop biting and also help your dog deal with the stress that is bringing on this aggressive behavior.
1.) Find out why your dog is biting. This is the first step in many behavior modification techniques, and it is fairly important. Mentally scan the times you remember your dog biting. Was it in the home or on a walk? Was it a family member or guest? Was the dog exhibiting other signs of aggression or stress? The best way to prevent biting is to minimize the stresses that cause this behavior and remove the dog before biting appears.
2.) When a dog exhibits other aggressive behavior, immediately remove the dog from the stressful setting. Say a guest is coming to visit. Upon entering your home, your dog begins barking aggressively, and the hairs on the dogs neck begin to stand out. Immediately remove your dog from the room to a designated crate or time-out area until it has calmed down (this will make leashing your dog prior to your training session a must). When the dog has calmed down, the dog should be allowed to return.
3.) Reward your dog for not exhibiting aggressive behavior. When your dog has learned not to bark or become aggressive in the prior scenario from repeated training, you or your guest should reward the dog with a small treat or toy as well as ample praise
1.) Find out why your dog is biting. This is the first step in many behavior modification techniques, and it is fairly important. Mentally scan the times you remember your dog biting. Was it in the home or on a walk? Was it a family member or guest? Was the dog exhibiting other signs of aggression or stress? The best way to prevent biting is to minimize the stresses that cause this behavior and remove the dog before biting appears.
2.) When a dog exhibits other aggressive behavior, immediately remove the dog from the stressful setting. Say a guest is coming to visit. Upon entering your home, your dog begins barking aggressively, and the hairs on the dogs neck begin to stand out. Immediately remove your dog from the room to a designated crate or time-out area until it has calmed down (this will make leashing your dog prior to your training session a must). When the dog has calmed down, the dog should be allowed to return.
3.) Reward your dog for not exhibiting aggressive behavior. When your dog has learned not to bark or become aggressive in the prior scenario from repeated training, you or your guest should reward the dog with a small treat or toy as well as ample praise
Stop Dog Chewing - Training Your Dog to Stop Chewing on the Wrong Things
Most dog breeds will chew on items like furniture, slippers, and other such items that seem to be attractive. Keeping them focused on stuff intended for them can be one continuous challenge. The tendency to chew will differ from one dog to another, so it helps to learn how to stop dog chewing problems.
Puppies in particular have a higher tendency to gnaw away at anything in sight and not be too choosy. But even those youthful pups can be discouraged from snatching things that the owner would like to keep intact.
Keep a variety of striking toys to hand, whether inside or out, for Chester to chew on. Tough rubber dental bones or rawhide bones are exciting for some dogs. Real bones tend not to be a great idea, but with some exceptions. Hefty beef bones are acceptable, but port and chicken can simply splinter and course injury.
Luckily, a great selection of dog toys are on hand. A few are even equipped with hollow interiors for containing treats. In order to reach the treat the dog often has a struggle on his hands. However, that's the whole idea. It keeps them busy and offers a good mental and physical challenge in to reach the reward.
A gentle tap or a sharp tone to stop dog chewing an inappropriate item, such as a sock or shoe, is generally constructive and helpful. Shrieking or callous bodily punishment is counter-productive. It's typically far more beneficial for both owner and dog to vent that annoyance elsewhere.
In order to practice developing a particular habit, take a moment to leash the dog and offer an unsuitable object. If the dog starts to creep forward, tug the leash in a sideway direction quickly and firmly, and present a firm No!
Be certain to tug sideways, and not in a backwards motion. A dog's neck muscles tend to be powerful, but the throat could easily be bruised. The movement is intended to inform, and not to punish.
On visits outside, if your dog has a habit of gnawing on fences, plants, etc, you can make use of the selection of pet repellents to prevent this behavior. A light covering of cayenne pepper paste on the leaves of the plants that seem to attract the attention of the pet is usually sufficient to eliminate the chewing in one lesson.
During any stage of dog training, consistency, persistence, and patience are the keys to success. Curbing or looking to stop dog chewing habits is generally one of the tougher challenges as you're training your pet to not do something, instead of doing something.
Redirection to tolerable items is your best option, as it's not possible for the instinct to be eliminated. Keep a cool head and remain alert. Even if you dog chewed a gapping hole in that new piece of furniture, it may be annoying and expensive, but is replaceable. Your relationship with your dog isn't.
If you're interested in getting a more detailed look at how to Stop Dog Chewing habits, plus a variety of Dog Breed tips and ideas, take a look at http://www.AtoZDogBreeds.com
Puppies in particular have a higher tendency to gnaw away at anything in sight and not be too choosy. But even those youthful pups can be discouraged from snatching things that the owner would like to keep intact.
Keep a variety of striking toys to hand, whether inside or out, for Chester to chew on. Tough rubber dental bones or rawhide bones are exciting for some dogs. Real bones tend not to be a great idea, but with some exceptions. Hefty beef bones are acceptable, but port and chicken can simply splinter and course injury.
Luckily, a great selection of dog toys are on hand. A few are even equipped with hollow interiors for containing treats. In order to reach the treat the dog often has a struggle on his hands. However, that's the whole idea. It keeps them busy and offers a good mental and physical challenge in to reach the reward.
A gentle tap or a sharp tone to stop dog chewing an inappropriate item, such as a sock or shoe, is generally constructive and helpful. Shrieking or callous bodily punishment is counter-productive. It's typically far more beneficial for both owner and dog to vent that annoyance elsewhere.
In order to practice developing a particular habit, take a moment to leash the dog and offer an unsuitable object. If the dog starts to creep forward, tug the leash in a sideway direction quickly and firmly, and present a firm No!
Be certain to tug sideways, and not in a backwards motion. A dog's neck muscles tend to be powerful, but the throat could easily be bruised. The movement is intended to inform, and not to punish.
On visits outside, if your dog has a habit of gnawing on fences, plants, etc, you can make use of the selection of pet repellents to prevent this behavior. A light covering of cayenne pepper paste on the leaves of the plants that seem to attract the attention of the pet is usually sufficient to eliminate the chewing in one lesson.
During any stage of dog training, consistency, persistence, and patience are the keys to success. Curbing or looking to stop dog chewing habits is generally one of the tougher challenges as you're training your pet to not do something, instead of doing something.
Redirection to tolerable items is your best option, as it's not possible for the instinct to be eliminated. Keep a cool head and remain alert. Even if you dog chewed a gapping hole in that new piece of furniture, it may be annoying and expensive, but is replaceable. Your relationship with your dog isn't.
If you're interested in getting a more detailed look at how to Stop Dog Chewing habits, plus a variety of Dog Breed tips and ideas, take a look at http://www.AtoZDogBreeds.com
Monday, 5 April 2010
Solve Your Dog Behavioral Problems Today
Dogs are consider man's best friends. This means that for every dog you have at your house, consider them as your best friend because if not, you will be encountering dog behavioral problems that you do not want to ever happen. To avoid such problems, caring of your dogs should start upon their birth until its death.
What causes Dog behavioral problems?
Most people believe that dog behavioral problems occur due to lack of communication with the dog, lack of caring, lack of time and even lack of training. Other says that it is due to the dog's genetics. However, expert says that this problems can be resolved if there's enough exercise to the dog. It suggested that at least 20 minutes of walking in a day is already an appropriate way to exercise your dog.
Below are some training methods to solve your Dog behavioral Problems:
As the owner of the dog, make him or her as part of your family. This means that include the dog during your family discussions and always talk to him or her.
It is obvious that this may be to late to have this tip but to have a proper obiedience training for your dog, it should start at a very early stage. It would be better if you would correct any dog behavioral problems at a very early stage.
It should be the same as when you discipline your children, you should set boundaries as to when such behavior is acceptable or not acceptable. This is also true with dogs.
It should be the same as when you discipline your children, you should set boundaries as to when such behavior is acceptable or not. This is also true with dogs.
Now, think of your dog. Stop dog behavioral problems so it will not end up in animal shelters.
Now you can quickly & easily resolve your dog behaviour problems such as barking, licking, urine and fecal marking using these powerful secrets.
Transform your dog behaviour problems now! Click on the website link for more details: Solve Your Dog Behavioral Problems
What causes Dog behavioral problems?
Most people believe that dog behavioral problems occur due to lack of communication with the dog, lack of caring, lack of time and even lack of training. Other says that it is due to the dog's genetics. However, expert says that this problems can be resolved if there's enough exercise to the dog. It suggested that at least 20 minutes of walking in a day is already an appropriate way to exercise your dog.
Below are some training methods to solve your Dog behavioral Problems:
As the owner of the dog, make him or her as part of your family. This means that include the dog during your family discussions and always talk to him or her.
It is obvious that this may be to late to have this tip but to have a proper obiedience training for your dog, it should start at a very early stage. It would be better if you would correct any dog behavioral problems at a very early stage.
It should be the same as when you discipline your children, you should set boundaries as to when such behavior is acceptable or not acceptable. This is also true with dogs.
It should be the same as when you discipline your children, you should set boundaries as to when such behavior is acceptable or not. This is also true with dogs.
Now, think of your dog. Stop dog behavioral problems so it will not end up in animal shelters.
Now you can quickly & easily resolve your dog behaviour problems such as barking, licking, urine and fecal marking using these powerful secrets.
Transform your dog behaviour problems now! Click on the website link for more details: Solve Your Dog Behavioral Problems
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