Timing is important! When you teach voice commands, give the command. Follow with the correction and praise. When you teach hand signals, give the signal. Follow with the correction and praise. When you want your dog to heel or to come, use her name with the command. When you want the dog to perform at a distance, stress the command or give a signal without the name. Give a command or signal ONCE. Repeat when necessary but put a correction with it. Praise AFTER commands and signals and WITH corrections.
The praise must be discontinued when exhibiting in Obedience Trials, but when used during the training period, your dog will be more responsive. When you praise, BE SINCERE! Dogs respond to a cajoling tone of voice. Modify your method of training to the SIZE AND TEMPERAMENT of the dog. Not all dogs train alike! When you correct, disguise corrections so you and your assistant will not appear responsible.
If you inadvertently make a harsh correction or misjudge the timing, make up to your dog immediately; then be careful not to repeat the mistake. If you find that one of the suggested corrective methods has a bad effect on your dog, don't use it. Dogs react differently to corrections. When problems come up, work backward. If your dog won't retrieve over the hurdle, lower the jump until she gains confidence. If she won't retrieve on flat, go back to the HOLDING and "TAKE IT!" exercises. Praise and a fresh start have a magical effect when a dog is temporarily confused. If you use your hand at any time to reprimand your dog (such as cuffing the dog's nose for creeping), pat her with the SAME hand you used to correct her. Your dog must think the hand correction was accidental. Don't be surprised when you attempt to solve one problem if your dog slips back on some other part of the exercise.
For instance, if you have been correcting your dog for NOT coming, she will undoubtedly come a few times TOO soon. The setback, while discouraging, is temporary, and in time you will balance the training. A good trainer will never use food as the ONLY inducement for making a dog obedient, but if your slow performer peps up when you give food, use it to overcome problems. If you are NOT successful in your training, BE MORE DEMANDING. Each time you correct for a REPEATED mistake, use a firmer tone of voice and jerk the leash harder. Strive for perfection from the beginning. When you are careless about little things, they become problems later on. The suggestions offered in The Complete Open Obedience Course will be more effective if your dog received the basic training outlined in The Complete Novice Obedience Course.
Saturday 8 May 2010
Monday 3 May 2010
Feeding Your Dog Can Be Easy
Wherever there are two or more dog owners gathered together there will be arguments. One person will tell you that he has never fed his dog anything but dog biscuits, and look at him! He's in perfect health. You look at the animal and he is indeed in the pink.
General remarks...
FEEDING is one of the most controversial subjects in dogdom. Wherever there are two or more dog owners gathered together there will be arguments. One person will tell you that he has never fed his dog anything but dog biscuits, and look at him! He's in perfect health. You look at the animal and he is indeed in the pink. Another owner will exhibit a perfect specimen to you, pointing out that he was raised, man and boy, on nothing but prepared dog foods. Others will attribute the excellent health of their pets to diets of vegetables only, others to meat only, others to milkless and eggless diets only, etc., etc. I myself have seen many healthy dogs, who were brought up on spaghetti only, and just last summer I saw a litter of perfectly healthy six-month-old puppies who had been raised on what is as lethal a diet for dogs as I know of-fried pancakes and nothing else. In my Ten years of treating dogs, however, I have found that healthy dogs brought up on such diets are far in the minority, and I have found that very few of them ever go wrong on meat, milk, toast or cereal, and a few vegetables.
Proper feeding is unquestionably the most important single factor in raising healthy dogs, but in undertaking to tell you how to do it, I realize that I have my hands full. Dogs are so rampantly individualistic in every way under the sun, and particularly in the matter of feeding, that it's almost impossible to prescribe for you a set of rules and diets that would precisely take care of every individual dog. I meet so many bewildered dog owners during the course of a week, however, who are so appallingly misinformed on dog feeding generally, that I have few qualms, if any, in listing for your guidance diets which are admittedly blanket. They may or may not be correct in every detail for your own dog, but they are not so far wrong in any instance as to cause any real harm to a dog, and certainly they're far safer for the amateur dog owner to follow than some of the absurd advice that I hear bandied about every day
Two dogs, the same age and the same size, two dogs out of the same litter, in fact, will often differ considerably in their feeding requirements. One may need a pound of meat a day and the other a half pound. One may have difficulty in digesting vegetables while the other one thrives on vegetables. Eggs may agree with one and not with the other. One may get fat on these diets and the other lose weight, but these are all matters that a little common sense can remedy.
If certain foods don't agree with your dog, don't give them to him.
If your dog gets too fat, it may be that he's not getting enough exercise. It may be that he's one of those demon assimilators who converts every crumb of food into fat and energy, in which case he needs less food. It may be that he has worms; worms sometimes give a dog a bloated look that the novice may mistake for fat. It may be that he has some glandular trouble. But the chances are nine out of ten that he's being overfed. Overfeeding is the big error nearly all dog owners make. The normal healthy puppy is food-crazy. He'll undoubtedly beg and plead for more food than I have advised, but I want to warn you that even if you give in to his pleas (and dog owners are notoriously weak in arguments with puppies over food), he'll still complain and go around telling the neighbors you're starving him to death.
If in following these diets, you find that your dog is losing weight, it's possible that he needs more food than I have indicated. It's more likely, however, that he needs an examination by a veterinarian. He may be suffering from worms that are robbing him of his nourishment; he may have a liver disturbance of some kind, tuberculosis, a foreign body lodged in his insides, or half a dozen other troubles that could cause underweight. Underweight or loss of weight in a dog should always be looked into because cases of simple underfeeding are not common among well-cared-for dogs.
General remarks...
FEEDING is one of the most controversial subjects in dogdom. Wherever there are two or more dog owners gathered together there will be arguments. One person will tell you that he has never fed his dog anything but dog biscuits, and look at him! He's in perfect health. You look at the animal and he is indeed in the pink. Another owner will exhibit a perfect specimen to you, pointing out that he was raised, man and boy, on nothing but prepared dog foods. Others will attribute the excellent health of their pets to diets of vegetables only, others to meat only, others to milkless and eggless diets only, etc., etc. I myself have seen many healthy dogs, who were brought up on spaghetti only, and just last summer I saw a litter of perfectly healthy six-month-old puppies who had been raised on what is as lethal a diet for dogs as I know of-fried pancakes and nothing else. In my Ten years of treating dogs, however, I have found that healthy dogs brought up on such diets are far in the minority, and I have found that very few of them ever go wrong on meat, milk, toast or cereal, and a few vegetables.
Proper feeding is unquestionably the most important single factor in raising healthy dogs, but in undertaking to tell you how to do it, I realize that I have my hands full. Dogs are so rampantly individualistic in every way under the sun, and particularly in the matter of feeding, that it's almost impossible to prescribe for you a set of rules and diets that would precisely take care of every individual dog. I meet so many bewildered dog owners during the course of a week, however, who are so appallingly misinformed on dog feeding generally, that I have few qualms, if any, in listing for your guidance diets which are admittedly blanket. They may or may not be correct in every detail for your own dog, but they are not so far wrong in any instance as to cause any real harm to a dog, and certainly they're far safer for the amateur dog owner to follow than some of the absurd advice that I hear bandied about every day
Two dogs, the same age and the same size, two dogs out of the same litter, in fact, will often differ considerably in their feeding requirements. One may need a pound of meat a day and the other a half pound. One may have difficulty in digesting vegetables while the other one thrives on vegetables. Eggs may agree with one and not with the other. One may get fat on these diets and the other lose weight, but these are all matters that a little common sense can remedy.
If certain foods don't agree with your dog, don't give them to him.
If your dog gets too fat, it may be that he's not getting enough exercise. It may be that he's one of those demon assimilators who converts every crumb of food into fat and energy, in which case he needs less food. It may be that he has worms; worms sometimes give a dog a bloated look that the novice may mistake for fat. It may be that he has some glandular trouble. But the chances are nine out of ten that he's being overfed. Overfeeding is the big error nearly all dog owners make. The normal healthy puppy is food-crazy. He'll undoubtedly beg and plead for more food than I have advised, but I want to warn you that even if you give in to his pleas (and dog owners are notoriously weak in arguments with puppies over food), he'll still complain and go around telling the neighbors you're starving him to death.
If in following these diets, you find that your dog is losing weight, it's possible that he needs more food than I have indicated. It's more likely, however, that he needs an examination by a veterinarian. He may be suffering from worms that are robbing him of his nourishment; he may have a liver disturbance of some kind, tuberculosis, a foreign body lodged in his insides, or half a dozen other troubles that could cause underweight. Underweight or loss of weight in a dog should always be looked into because cases of simple underfeeding are not common among well-cared-for dogs.
Tips Of Feeding Your Dog
Before listing the diets, I want to give you first the answers to a few questions that are asked me most frequently on the subject of feeding in general. Most of them are applicable to all sizes and breeds of dogs and therefore should prove helpful to you either by themselves or in connection with the diets that follow:
1. Dogs usually wolf their food down without chewing. This is perfectly natural and nothing to worry about. Their teeth are made for tearing food and their stomachs take care of the rest. This habit probably dates back to the time when dogs traveled in packs; a dog had to eat fast to get his share.
2. Some dogs won't eat raw meat. Such dogs, I suppose, are the truly civilized ones. Cook the meat for them slightly, enough to take away the odor of blood and the reminder of barbaric days.
3. Some dogs won't eat ground meat but will eat it cubed, while still others like it in big pieces so that they can tear it apart.
4. Raw eggs disagree with some dogs. Try soft-boiled eggs in this case. If soft-boiled eggs don't agree with your dog, or if he doesn't like eggs, forget about them.
5. Expensive cuts of meat are not necessary. The cheaper cuts, as long as they are lean, are just as nourishing.
6. Heart, liver, and other organic foods agree with some dogs. Dogs in their wild state, I have read, used to kill an animal, and if times were particularly prosperous, eat only his insides and leave the rest of the carcass. I don't know what this proves today. I do know that organic food disagrees with many dogs, and if you find that it disagrees with your dog, don't give it to him.
7. Prepared foods are all right occasionally, but before you use any of them, consult your veterinarian about types and brands.
8. Milk does not cause worms.
9. Meat does not cause viciousness.
10. Some dogs won't drink water. This is nothing to worry about. It may be that they're getting all the moisture they need from their food and milk or from a source unknown to you-the toilet bowl, for instance. There is a popular belief that a block of sulphur placed in the drinking water is (a) a water purifier, (b) a blood purifier, (c) a worm exterminator, (d) a tonic and I don't know what else-the list is so long. This is a lot of foolishness. A block of sulphur is a fine dust collector and that's about all.
11. No dog should be allowed within a mile of chicken bones, fish bones, or other small bones.
12. The following foods, I have found, do not generally agree with dogs: pork, potatoes, fresh bread, cake, candy, cabbage, turnips, spaghetti, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, beets, lima beans, bananas, and cheese (excepting cottage cheese). And I would sternly like to add: cocktails, cocktail canapes and sausages, salted nuts, and such things that people in expansive moods too often feel that they must share with the dog. The festive board is not for dogs.
13. The following foods, I have found, do agree generally with dogs: beef, lamb or mutton, fish, carrots, spinach, string beans, asparagus, boiled onions, broccoli, lettuce, celery; fruits such as oranges, pears, apples.
14. If your dog won't eat at his regular mealtime, take his dish away and wait until his next mealtime. Don't try to tempt him an hour or so after his regular mealtime.
15. Different breeds do not require different kinds of food. A Mexican hairless eats the same kind of food that a Scotty eats, and a Scotty eats the same as a great Dane. Only the amounts vary, and big dogs quite often need more "filler" foods-that is, foods other than meat.
16. If cod-liver oil upsets your dog, try viosterol. Give smaller quantities of viosterol than those prescribed for cod-liver oil. Give very small doses of either one in hot weather.
1. Dogs usually wolf their food down without chewing. This is perfectly natural and nothing to worry about. Their teeth are made for tearing food and their stomachs take care of the rest. This habit probably dates back to the time when dogs traveled in packs; a dog had to eat fast to get his share.
2. Some dogs won't eat raw meat. Such dogs, I suppose, are the truly civilized ones. Cook the meat for them slightly, enough to take away the odor of blood and the reminder of barbaric days.
3. Some dogs won't eat ground meat but will eat it cubed, while still others like it in big pieces so that they can tear it apart.
4. Raw eggs disagree with some dogs. Try soft-boiled eggs in this case. If soft-boiled eggs don't agree with your dog, or if he doesn't like eggs, forget about them.
5. Expensive cuts of meat are not necessary. The cheaper cuts, as long as they are lean, are just as nourishing.
6. Heart, liver, and other organic foods agree with some dogs. Dogs in their wild state, I have read, used to kill an animal, and if times were particularly prosperous, eat only his insides and leave the rest of the carcass. I don't know what this proves today. I do know that organic food disagrees with many dogs, and if you find that it disagrees with your dog, don't give it to him.
7. Prepared foods are all right occasionally, but before you use any of them, consult your veterinarian about types and brands.
8. Milk does not cause worms.
9. Meat does not cause viciousness.
10. Some dogs won't drink water. This is nothing to worry about. It may be that they're getting all the moisture they need from their food and milk or from a source unknown to you-the toilet bowl, for instance. There is a popular belief that a block of sulphur placed in the drinking water is (a) a water purifier, (b) a blood purifier, (c) a worm exterminator, (d) a tonic and I don't know what else-the list is so long. This is a lot of foolishness. A block of sulphur is a fine dust collector and that's about all.
11. No dog should be allowed within a mile of chicken bones, fish bones, or other small bones.
12. The following foods, I have found, do not generally agree with dogs: pork, potatoes, fresh bread, cake, candy, cabbage, turnips, spaghetti, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, beets, lima beans, bananas, and cheese (excepting cottage cheese). And I would sternly like to add: cocktails, cocktail canapes and sausages, salted nuts, and such things that people in expansive moods too often feel that they must share with the dog. The festive board is not for dogs.
13. The following foods, I have found, do agree generally with dogs: beef, lamb or mutton, fish, carrots, spinach, string beans, asparagus, boiled onions, broccoli, lettuce, celery; fruits such as oranges, pears, apples.
14. If your dog won't eat at his regular mealtime, take his dish away and wait until his next mealtime. Don't try to tempt him an hour or so after his regular mealtime.
15. Different breeds do not require different kinds of food. A Mexican hairless eats the same kind of food that a Scotty eats, and a Scotty eats the same as a great Dane. Only the amounts vary, and big dogs quite often need more "filler" foods-that is, foods other than meat.
16. If cod-liver oil upsets your dog, try viosterol. Give smaller quantities of viosterol than those prescribed for cod-liver oil. Give very small doses of either one in hot weather.
Thursday 22 April 2010
House Train Your Dog Fast
If you have just purchased or adopted a new puppy, you have probably already started to realize that you will need to house train your dog. One can only clean up soiled or soggy carpet a few times before is starts to get frustrating. So what can you do? This short article will contain a few tips for house breaking your new pet.
You may think that house breaking your pet will be difficult, it really isn't all that bad. It is in your dog's nature to want to keep its living area clean. This is very helpful when trying to house train your dog. Essentially when your pet realizes that he is home, this inappropriate behavior will stop. Your goal should be to help this process along as quickly as possible.
The first thing you should do is to make sure that there are no physical problems that are causing your pet to soil your carpets. This is only the case with a small percentage of dogs. However, if your pet has not been to the vet, make an appointment right away. Your dog should be checked for conditions that would make house training more difficult as well as his overall healthiness. While your pet is visiting the vet, ask to have them checked for worms. Remember that the old adage "You are what you eat" is close to the truth. A poor quality dog food can cause digestive problems that in turn may cause loose stools. This will make it more difficult for your new pet to control himself. You should find a food that isn't saturated with fillers. This will make the stool more solid and there will be less of it as well. I have used Nutro Natural Choice with great success. There are many other choices on the market that will also work well.
One of the most important aspects when trying to house train your dog is close supervision. This is probably the most important part of house training a pet because dogs learn by habit or repetition. If you see your dog showing signs of needing to be taken out, then you must take immediate action to get your dog outside to its designated area. Consistency is critical when training your pet. Do not make excuses such as it's cold or dark outside or your pet will adopt these same attitudes. You should try to arrange to take your dog out every couple of house while house training. Supervising your pet will also allow you to correct your pet while it is still fresh on his mind. While dog are very intelligent and perceptive, short term memory is one of their weaknesses. Correcting your dog after more than a few minutes have passes has no purpose because your dog will not remember what he did to cause you to scold him.
If you follow these simple suggestions, your carpets and your new pet to survive housebreaking relatively free from stress.
There's no reason you should be nervous about trying to house train your dog. Click Here to get the information you need to effectively housebreak your pet. If you're ready to read more about how our guide can help you end soiled carpet forever visit our house train your dog page. Join the thousands we have already helped and visit us now.
You may think that house breaking your pet will be difficult, it really isn't all that bad. It is in your dog's nature to want to keep its living area clean. This is very helpful when trying to house train your dog. Essentially when your pet realizes that he is home, this inappropriate behavior will stop. Your goal should be to help this process along as quickly as possible.
The first thing you should do is to make sure that there are no physical problems that are causing your pet to soil your carpets. This is only the case with a small percentage of dogs. However, if your pet has not been to the vet, make an appointment right away. Your dog should be checked for conditions that would make house training more difficult as well as his overall healthiness. While your pet is visiting the vet, ask to have them checked for worms. Remember that the old adage "You are what you eat" is close to the truth. A poor quality dog food can cause digestive problems that in turn may cause loose stools. This will make it more difficult for your new pet to control himself. You should find a food that isn't saturated with fillers. This will make the stool more solid and there will be less of it as well. I have used Nutro Natural Choice with great success. There are many other choices on the market that will also work well.
One of the most important aspects when trying to house train your dog is close supervision. This is probably the most important part of house training a pet because dogs learn by habit or repetition. If you see your dog showing signs of needing to be taken out, then you must take immediate action to get your dog outside to its designated area. Consistency is critical when training your pet. Do not make excuses such as it's cold or dark outside or your pet will adopt these same attitudes. You should try to arrange to take your dog out every couple of house while house training. Supervising your pet will also allow you to correct your pet while it is still fresh on his mind. While dog are very intelligent and perceptive, short term memory is one of their weaknesses. Correcting your dog after more than a few minutes have passes has no purpose because your dog will not remember what he did to cause you to scold him.
If you follow these simple suggestions, your carpets and your new pet to survive housebreaking relatively free from stress.
There's no reason you should be nervous about trying to house train your dog. Click Here to get the information you need to effectively housebreak your pet. If you're ready to read more about how our guide can help you end soiled carpet forever visit our house train your dog page. Join the thousands we have already helped and visit us now.
How To Train Your Dog In One Evening
Are you having problems with your dogs behavior? Does your dog bark all the time? Does your dog dig up your yard? Does your dog chew everything? Would you like to learn How To Train Your Dog In One Evening to stop this. These are just a few of the problems dog owners have.
I guess since you are reading this article that you are looking for answers to these problems, let me help:
Make your training sessions short and fun, about 10 to 20 mins tops, if your dog isn't having fun they won't respond in the way you want. Don't become cross with your dog during training, if you feel like your getting frustrated then call a stop the session and try again tomorrow.
Avoid confusing your dog, keep your commands short, clear and consistant. For example if your dog jumps on your couch and you say "down", the dog is going to lie down, as this is the command for lie down, what you should say is "off" as this means get off something.
Trying to get your dog to stop barking fully is almost impossible as well as being cruel to your dog, controlling your dogs barking however would be great for yourself and your neighbors. A couple of things you could try are:
1, Give your dog some consideration, dogs are pack animals and are used to having company, one of the main reasons for you dog barking is they could be lonely. Spending time with your dog playing and exercising will result in a contented and happy dog, the dog will bark less. If you have to leave your dog for long periods of time take them for a long walk and play intense games with them.
2. Your home and your family mirror your dog's pack and dogs do tend to take on traits of the pack. If your home is noisy so will be your dog, try calming the situation this will prevent him or her from barking quite as much.
Digging is a common thing for dogs to do, they can do it for all sorts of reasons, boredom, wanting to escape and also trying to reach you to mention but a few. Trying to identify the reason can be difficult but you could look at where the holes are being dug. There is a lot of truth in the saying: "the lawn will forgive your dog, surely in the grand scheme of things a healthy dog is better than a perfect lawn". The best thing for dogs who dig is to locate a part of your yard for them to dig, try burying treats or their toys to encourage them to use this area even fence it off if you need too, but give them an area where it doesn't matter if they dig.
Chewing is also a regular activity for dogs, they do it because:
1. They are trying to sooth sore teething gums.
2. They are bored.
3. They are trying to relieve tension or anxiety.
Try moving everything you wouldn't want the dog to destroy out of sight, if they can't see it they won't want it. Give them something of their own to chew, some of the most popular dog chews are: Stuffed Kongs and Nylabones.
Kongs can be stuffed with foods such as peanut butter or bananas, or even frozen items.
Nylabones come in an assortment of styles colours and textures, you should praise your dog or give them the odd treat if he or she chews these items.
Watching your dogs chewing habits will help when he or she attempts to chew something they shouldn't, say "no" and offer them their chew instead, be consistant and persevere, praise your dog when they stop chewing.
These are just a few tips on training your dog to stop barking, digging holes in your yard and chewing up your treasured items. for much more help and useful solutions why not take a look at: How To Train Your Dog In One Evening.
My name is Emma Everson and I specialize in providing dog training solutions. I have been training dogs for 20 years and have researched extensively in all areas of dog behavior. How To Train Your Dog In One Evening is an outstanding collection of dog training secrets for training your dog quickly, it has entries from experts who collectively have 80 years experience, they include Police dog handlers, show dog trainers and veterinary technicians
I guess since you are reading this article that you are looking for answers to these problems, let me help:
Make your training sessions short and fun, about 10 to 20 mins tops, if your dog isn't having fun they won't respond in the way you want. Don't become cross with your dog during training, if you feel like your getting frustrated then call a stop the session and try again tomorrow.
Avoid confusing your dog, keep your commands short, clear and consistant. For example if your dog jumps on your couch and you say "down", the dog is going to lie down, as this is the command for lie down, what you should say is "off" as this means get off something.
Trying to get your dog to stop barking fully is almost impossible as well as being cruel to your dog, controlling your dogs barking however would be great for yourself and your neighbors. A couple of things you could try are:
1, Give your dog some consideration, dogs are pack animals and are used to having company, one of the main reasons for you dog barking is they could be lonely. Spending time with your dog playing and exercising will result in a contented and happy dog, the dog will bark less. If you have to leave your dog for long periods of time take them for a long walk and play intense games with them.
2. Your home and your family mirror your dog's pack and dogs do tend to take on traits of the pack. If your home is noisy so will be your dog, try calming the situation this will prevent him or her from barking quite as much.
Digging is a common thing for dogs to do, they can do it for all sorts of reasons, boredom, wanting to escape and also trying to reach you to mention but a few. Trying to identify the reason can be difficult but you could look at where the holes are being dug. There is a lot of truth in the saying: "the lawn will forgive your dog, surely in the grand scheme of things a healthy dog is better than a perfect lawn". The best thing for dogs who dig is to locate a part of your yard for them to dig, try burying treats or their toys to encourage them to use this area even fence it off if you need too, but give them an area where it doesn't matter if they dig.
Chewing is also a regular activity for dogs, they do it because:
1. They are trying to sooth sore teething gums.
2. They are bored.
3. They are trying to relieve tension or anxiety.
Try moving everything you wouldn't want the dog to destroy out of sight, if they can't see it they won't want it. Give them something of their own to chew, some of the most popular dog chews are: Stuffed Kongs and Nylabones.
Kongs can be stuffed with foods such as peanut butter or bananas, or even frozen items.
Nylabones come in an assortment of styles colours and textures, you should praise your dog or give them the odd treat if he or she chews these items.
Watching your dogs chewing habits will help when he or she attempts to chew something they shouldn't, say "no" and offer them their chew instead, be consistant and persevere, praise your dog when they stop chewing.
These are just a few tips on training your dog to stop barking, digging holes in your yard and chewing up your treasured items. for much more help and useful solutions why not take a look at: How To Train Your Dog In One Evening.
My name is Emma Everson and I specialize in providing dog training solutions. I have been training dogs for 20 years and have researched extensively in all areas of dog behavior. How To Train Your Dog In One Evening is an outstanding collection of dog training secrets for training your dog quickly, it has entries from experts who collectively have 80 years experience, they include Police dog handlers, show dog trainers and veterinary technicians
Tuesday 20 April 2010
Dog Training Tricks - Proof That You Can Train Your Dog Yourself
Having problems with your pooch? Is she piddling on the rug? Is he dragging you down the street when you try to walk him? Chewing on your shoes or raiding the trash? Or do you have a new puppy you want to start off on the right track to prevent these problems from ever happening in the first place?
You don't need an expensive trainer for these everyday issues (though I do recommend a professional if you have a particularly aggressive dog that may require special understanding and handling). Nor do you need to attend the pet store "obedience classes" unless you'd just enjoy doing so. I'm going to show you here a couple of tricks to prove to you that you can train your dog to do anything you'd like, within his capability, and do it positively while both of you have fun. Just try them and you'll see for yourself how quick and easy this is.
First, it's important to understand that dogs live to please us. It may not appear so when your dog is ignoring your commands - that's because he doesn't understand your commands or perhaps your method for teaching him has backfired on you, which is the most common problem. What you think you're telling him and what he's thinking may be two very different things.
For example, you may want your dog to "come". Under what circumstances have you been giving that command? Are you yelling it at him for him to come to you only when you're unhappy with him and when he's to be punished somehow? Not exactly motivating. Certainly an unsuccessful approach.
It's well worth a few minutes of play every day to teach your dog to "come" immediately and every time you command it. And I do mean "play", not "work" - it's fun and a great bonding experience. Food is a terrific doggie motivator, so get some small one-bite treats (no big biscuits that take time to eat and thus distract from your goal). When you're sitting there watching TV or at your computer, most anywhere really, tell your dog to "come" with a calm, happy voice and give him a treat when he does. Only one treat, we aren't trying to teach him to beg! A little later, tell him to "come" and give him "lovies", pet him, praise him. Another time, play with him with his favorite toy for a few minutes. Show him that "come" means something good will happen. Do this frequently throughout the day , rotating the rewards, and you'll see that he will soon be happily obeying your command every time. Sounds easy, doesn't it? It is!
Want your dog to be well-behaved on a leash? This, too, is quick and easy, usually just a matter of stopping the walk when pooch starts to pull. Your dog wants to GO, to explore and sniff - that's his motivation and fun. Stopping dead in your tracks keeps him from what he wants to do. Shorten the leash length to keep him at your side and in a calm voice (very important - if you yell or show emotion, you'll just excite him further), tell him to "calm" or "shhh", whatever comes naturally to you, and stand there until he calms down. When he does, continue your walk, repeating this as often as necessary until he understands what you expect from him and learns to "walk nice" (my particular command for a rowdy dog). It can usually be accomplished very quickly, often in a single session with a quick reminder if he forgets it the next time you walk.
When it comes to walking, I believe this is one of the most important things you can do for your dog and for you. It not only gives you both healthy exercise, it allows for deeper bonding and understanding between you, the foundation of trust so important in further training. It also gives your dog that mental stimulation he needs to be well-behaved, socialized and happy. I don't do the "heel" thing when we walk - I have little interest in having a "Stepford" dog. Instead, I want our walks to be his time to stop and sniff (within reason) and to explore. I just insist that he "walk nice" for both of our sakes, which is defined as a loose leash and not losing his mind when he sees other dogs. The training technique I described above usually accomplishes both of these goals.
Just these two techniques I've described can be used with variation to deal with most any issue. For example, want your dog to leave your shoes alone? Give him own chew toy and reward him with a treat at first for choosing that over the seductive shoe. Spend a few minutes each day with this exercise. If that isn't enough, or in addition to the above, you can use the "leave it" command technique. For this, place the shoe in front of him and when he reaches for it, say "leave it", giving him a treat and praising him when he does. Repeat as necessary, making him wait longer and longer for his reward.
Want your dog to be calm when the doorbell rings? Use a variation of the leash training technique and the "shhh" or "calm" command you used on your walks, which he now understands, working with a friend or neighbor who is willing to come over and ring your doorbell until your dog "gets it".
Establish the foundation of reward for the behavior you want and he'll start learning new behaviors very quickly. He'll snap to the reward thing and look forward to learning new things, knowing something good will happen when he does... and just because it's fun!
I've just given you a quick overview here, a place to start. There are many more proven techniques that I hope you'll want to learn now that you know you can train your dog and how rewarding it is for both of you!
If you've found this helpful, please visit us at [http://www.4FurPeople.com] with step-by-step dog training courses including one on more advanced trick training, dog training aids like all-natural training treats, books, DVDs, nutrition and health information and much more! Also visit Pat's Blog at http://petpassionparadise.blogspot.com
You don't need an expensive trainer for these everyday issues (though I do recommend a professional if you have a particularly aggressive dog that may require special understanding and handling). Nor do you need to attend the pet store "obedience classes" unless you'd just enjoy doing so. I'm going to show you here a couple of tricks to prove to you that you can train your dog to do anything you'd like, within his capability, and do it positively while both of you have fun. Just try them and you'll see for yourself how quick and easy this is.
First, it's important to understand that dogs live to please us. It may not appear so when your dog is ignoring your commands - that's because he doesn't understand your commands or perhaps your method for teaching him has backfired on you, which is the most common problem. What you think you're telling him and what he's thinking may be two very different things.
For example, you may want your dog to "come". Under what circumstances have you been giving that command? Are you yelling it at him for him to come to you only when you're unhappy with him and when he's to be punished somehow? Not exactly motivating. Certainly an unsuccessful approach.
It's well worth a few minutes of play every day to teach your dog to "come" immediately and every time you command it. And I do mean "play", not "work" - it's fun and a great bonding experience. Food is a terrific doggie motivator, so get some small one-bite treats (no big biscuits that take time to eat and thus distract from your goal). When you're sitting there watching TV or at your computer, most anywhere really, tell your dog to "come" with a calm, happy voice and give him a treat when he does. Only one treat, we aren't trying to teach him to beg! A little later, tell him to "come" and give him "lovies", pet him, praise him. Another time, play with him with his favorite toy for a few minutes. Show him that "come" means something good will happen. Do this frequently throughout the day , rotating the rewards, and you'll see that he will soon be happily obeying your command every time. Sounds easy, doesn't it? It is!
Want your dog to be well-behaved on a leash? This, too, is quick and easy, usually just a matter of stopping the walk when pooch starts to pull. Your dog wants to GO, to explore and sniff - that's his motivation and fun. Stopping dead in your tracks keeps him from what he wants to do. Shorten the leash length to keep him at your side and in a calm voice (very important - if you yell or show emotion, you'll just excite him further), tell him to "calm" or "shhh", whatever comes naturally to you, and stand there until he calms down. When he does, continue your walk, repeating this as often as necessary until he understands what you expect from him and learns to "walk nice" (my particular command for a rowdy dog). It can usually be accomplished very quickly, often in a single session with a quick reminder if he forgets it the next time you walk.
When it comes to walking, I believe this is one of the most important things you can do for your dog and for you. It not only gives you both healthy exercise, it allows for deeper bonding and understanding between you, the foundation of trust so important in further training. It also gives your dog that mental stimulation he needs to be well-behaved, socialized and happy. I don't do the "heel" thing when we walk - I have little interest in having a "Stepford" dog. Instead, I want our walks to be his time to stop and sniff (within reason) and to explore. I just insist that he "walk nice" for both of our sakes, which is defined as a loose leash and not losing his mind when he sees other dogs. The training technique I described above usually accomplishes both of these goals.
Just these two techniques I've described can be used with variation to deal with most any issue. For example, want your dog to leave your shoes alone? Give him own chew toy and reward him with a treat at first for choosing that over the seductive shoe. Spend a few minutes each day with this exercise. If that isn't enough, or in addition to the above, you can use the "leave it" command technique. For this, place the shoe in front of him and when he reaches for it, say "leave it", giving him a treat and praising him when he does. Repeat as necessary, making him wait longer and longer for his reward.
Want your dog to be calm when the doorbell rings? Use a variation of the leash training technique and the "shhh" or "calm" command you used on your walks, which he now understands, working with a friend or neighbor who is willing to come over and ring your doorbell until your dog "gets it".
Establish the foundation of reward for the behavior you want and he'll start learning new behaviors very quickly. He'll snap to the reward thing and look forward to learning new things, knowing something good will happen when he does... and just because it's fun!
I've just given you a quick overview here, a place to start. There are many more proven techniques that I hope you'll want to learn now that you know you can train your dog and how rewarding it is for both of you!
If you've found this helpful, please visit us at [http://www.4FurPeople.com] with step-by-step dog training courses including one on more advanced trick training, dog training aids like all-natural training treats, books, DVDs, nutrition and health information and much more! Also visit Pat's Blog at http://petpassionparadise.blogspot.com
Rewarding Your Dog For Good Behavior
Most dogs are real people pleasers. That is, you don't have to do a lot to reward your dog's good behavior. Some simple praise or a small treat is often enough to reward a behavior that you want to see continued - such as not chewing on your favorite shoes or the furniture, "holding it" until your dog gets outside, and so on.
But sometimes, you need a little variety, if not for your dog, certainly for yourself. Again, make no mistake; simply praising your dog and making sure he or she gets attention when he or she does something right is a great system to use, you should keep doing it. Your friend needs this love and attention, and you should never quit doing it. There are a few things to keep in mind, though, when it comes rewarding your best friend.
Make it immediate
Dogs really have short attention spans, so when he or she does something good, make sure you reward the behavior immediately. If you don't, the dog is no longer going to associate the treat or reward with the good behavior, and could get confused.
Quality time
A great reward to use is simple quality time with you, playing. A game of catch, tug-of-war, fetching, "hide and seek" - anything that is going to let your dog engage in some rough-and-tumble truly fun physical activity with you is going to reinforce the good behavior you want to instill. There are a couple of reasons for this. One is, of course, that it's rewarding to the dog and he or she will want to do this again; the other thing is that if you keep your dog physically engaged, he or she is less likely to get bored or restless and do something you'd rather he wouldn't, like find your shoes and use them as a chew bone.
Toys
Dogs love toys. Whether it's a favorite stick or ball that he or she plays catch with, or something where problem-solving comes into play, toys are great rewards that, again, are going to also keep your dog engaged and keep behavioral problems to a minimum simply because he or she isn't going to get bored. And again, it's also a great idea if it involves some exercise, since we want to keep our pets healthy, too.
Sometimes, food's the thing
Finally, remember that food treats are absolutely okay as an occasional treat in addition to your dog's diet, as long as it's something your dog can truly have. (Chocolate and raisins, for example, are absolute no-no's and can be poisonous your dog.) Whether it's a favorite occasional doggie treat or something you make yourself, your dog will truly love it. Just remember that like people, dogs can overeat and have problems with food over consumption, too, so make treats a rare thing.
Show love - and discipline
Of course, bad behavior needs to be stopped in its tracks if you see it, but it's much easier and better for your dog, too, if you focus on the good behavior as a matter of course. Showing love to your dog will make him or her love you back and want to please you, too - which will make training your pet a pretty easy job to do.
This article was written by Kelly Marshall of Oh My Dog Supplies -
But sometimes, you need a little variety, if not for your dog, certainly for yourself. Again, make no mistake; simply praising your dog and making sure he or she gets attention when he or she does something right is a great system to use, you should keep doing it. Your friend needs this love and attention, and you should never quit doing it. There are a few things to keep in mind, though, when it comes rewarding your best friend.
Make it immediate
Dogs really have short attention spans, so when he or she does something good, make sure you reward the behavior immediately. If you don't, the dog is no longer going to associate the treat or reward with the good behavior, and could get confused.
Quality time
A great reward to use is simple quality time with you, playing. A game of catch, tug-of-war, fetching, "hide and seek" - anything that is going to let your dog engage in some rough-and-tumble truly fun physical activity with you is going to reinforce the good behavior you want to instill. There are a couple of reasons for this. One is, of course, that it's rewarding to the dog and he or she will want to do this again; the other thing is that if you keep your dog physically engaged, he or she is less likely to get bored or restless and do something you'd rather he wouldn't, like find your shoes and use them as a chew bone.
Toys
Dogs love toys. Whether it's a favorite stick or ball that he or she plays catch with, or something where problem-solving comes into play, toys are great rewards that, again, are going to also keep your dog engaged and keep behavioral problems to a minimum simply because he or she isn't going to get bored. And again, it's also a great idea if it involves some exercise, since we want to keep our pets healthy, too.
Sometimes, food's the thing
Finally, remember that food treats are absolutely okay as an occasional treat in addition to your dog's diet, as long as it's something your dog can truly have. (Chocolate and raisins, for example, are absolute no-no's and can be poisonous your dog.) Whether it's a favorite occasional doggie treat or something you make yourself, your dog will truly love it. Just remember that like people, dogs can overeat and have problems with food over consumption, too, so make treats a rare thing.
Show love - and discipline
Of course, bad behavior needs to be stopped in its tracks if you see it, but it's much easier and better for your dog, too, if you focus on the good behavior as a matter of course. Showing love to your dog will make him or her love you back and want to please you, too - which will make training your pet a pretty easy job to do.
This article was written by Kelly Marshall of Oh My Dog Supplies -
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